The Bands Played on…. In Malta

Republic Street in Valletta right before the start of the band march during the Feast of St. Paul in February.

First, as a tourist, and then as a new resident in Malta, your eyes and ears are always open to the new and unique. Two things that caught our attention right from the start are band clubs and fireworks. And I do not mean ordinary bands and fireworks. So, band clubs for today and fireworks for another day.

Band clubs are not something you would experience in the United States. They are found in all of Malta’s villages, towns and cities. In Malta, band clubs are an essential and unique part of local culture; but how. What does it really consist of and what is its role in modern Maltese society?

As the bands get underway in Valletta.

Il-kazin tal-banda, or the local band club, is one of the most typical locations in a Maltese town or village. Each town, village and city in Malta has at least one – many have two or three just a stone’s throw away from each other, often with decades-long rivalries. Most of the 91 band clubs around Malta and Gozo are open to the public all year round; and many have bar and restaurant areas where one can mingle with the locals, while helping to keep the club afloat. But what is a band club exactly, and what is its role in Maltese society nowadays?

Upon researching Band Clubs, we found out that they are part and parcel of the social and cultural history of the Maltese islands and have, over the years, established themselves as an institution at the core of every town and village, and spread its culture. Many musicians who have gone on to make a name for themselves, locally or abroad, owe their success, in part, to the encouragement and teaching of the local band club.

The band club in Balzan, Każin tal-Banda San Gabriel Ħal Balzan. Their clubhouse is located about a five minute walk from our home.

They did start out as local social clubs – in fact, the musical element came in later, when marching bands started being formed to enhance the atmosphere of the village feast, influenced by the marching bands of the British military. They were also often epicenters for social movements and change; for example, the Sette Giugno uprising, widely considered to be the first step in Malta’s quest for independence, was plotted within a network of band clubs.

As I suspected, the names of band clubs to this day reflect whether the clubs were more historically pro-Italian or pro-British – the ones that supported colonial rule are usually named after British personages such as King George V, Queen Victoria or the Duke of Connaught.

Band Club King George V

Band clubs serve a triple role. “First of all, they are free music schools, providing their students with tuition and instruments at no cost. Second, they are the key to organizing events within the community, from the village feast to summer music festivals. Third, they serve as a breeding ground for culture and creativity, teaching their young members valuable skills. Indeed, at a band club, young people can master a whole gamut of skills, from the musical training that underpins the purpose of a band club, to event organization and management, to the highly precise science of pyrotechnics that leads to the beautiful firework displays seen at village feasts all over the island.

The Band clubhouse in Birgu, (Vittoriosa), across the harbor from Valletta.
Band training starts at an early age.

No matter what the primary reason for band clubs is, I strongly urge all visitors and residents to partake of this wonderful Maltese tradition. Come festival season (mostly in the summer), walk along with the bands as they play and march through towns and villages. Join in on the fun. And don’t forget during the rest of the year, a band club is a great place for dinner, a pizza and a beer. And most of all, it may just be the very best way to learn about Maltese culture.

Everyone loves the tuba player. He really is enjoying himself.