I know, I know. Santa Claus is supposed to come to towns all over the world. But we decided that we would instead go to where Santa Claus comes to towns every year, in Germany, just to be different.

Ok, so we didn’t fly to Germany from Malta on a 747. But the 747, particularly the ones flown by Lufthansa is the one we fly when traveling long distances. And I go bonkers over visiting museums about planes, space shuttles, trains, and automobiles.

I keep hearing people complain about the lack of food or quality of foods on airplanes these days, mostly in the U.S. This was the meal served on our flight from Frankfurt to Helsinki. Every Christmas (months of November and December) Lufthansa serves a Christmas dinner on its flights from Frankfurt in multiple classes. A traditional roast goose, served with red cabbage and dumplings. (And it was only barely a two-hour flight.)

We booked an eight-day river cruise on the Rhine and Mainz Rivers, departing from and arriving at Frankfurt. The goal was to visit the Christmas markets, and the historic towns and cities along the way. Cut to the chase, it was great! The only thing missing was snow and winter freeze.

We visited Frankfurt, Heidelberg, Strasbourg, Speyer, Coblenz, Eltville, and Mainz.

Our home for the trip was the Viva Tiara. It only accommodated 153 passengers. Sure beats those monster ships where you can travel with 7,000 of your closest friends.

We dropped our bags on board and headed out for a walking tour of parts of Frankfurt. And had lunch in a very old restaurant. A real taste of Frankfurt.

An interesting fact about Germany is that many cities were completely or mostly bombed during WW II. In Frankfurt, they decided to recreate the destroyed buildings from the ground up. At the same time, they also gave Frankfurt a striking modernistic look as well. At the end of the tour, because we were so attentive, we were taken to lunch, including some very delicious German beer (eat your heart out Cisk!).

As we slept through the night, our boat left for Mannheim, on the confluence of the Upper Rhine and Necker rivers. On our first full day, we took a bus, through the forests and vineyards, up and down hills, ever increasing in elevation. After almost an hour we arrived at the Castle at Heidelberg, located on the Necker River. The imposing castle looms over the city and the river. The castle was first founded as a monastery in 1196. Heidelberg has a population of around 160,000. Home to the University of Heidelberg, the students make up one-quarter of the population. And it is the oldest (1386) university in Germany.

The castle from the inner courtyard. In the image on the right, you can see a sloping entrance down to the cellar. Let’s see what’s inside.

Behold, the largest wine barrel in the world! It can hold 292,000 bottles worth of wine! My kind of wine barrel. In a convoluted way, it makes sense. Consider this. In its early years, people would often die from drinking water. So, it was either beer or wine. (It took 130 oak trees to fashion it.)

Now this is more my size. Only half as big. Oh, were it filled with Pinot Noir! But look, maybe it is on the wine menu.

When we first got off the bus, we came across this cafe. The sign didn’t make sense then; but now it does. Life is too short to drink bad wine! I’ll drink to that.

From way up at the castle, I couldn’t but help noticing a really beautiful bridge over the Necker River. It is called “the old bridge’, having been built in 1877. It is the eighth bridge built on the same site. At one time, the buildings across the river were single family homes.

Ok, now it’s on to the Christmas Market! Lots of beer, sausages, candy, and other assorted goodies. And rides for the kiddies.

Most cities we visited had multiple Christmas Markets, each slightly different than the others. But carousels are omnipresent.

Notice the two, barrel shaped huts. They are seen in all markets, and are heated, so families can go in and get warmed up.

Another staple of all German Christmas markets is food and Gluhwein. They sell the best of the wurst, and all kinds of Gluhwein.

And when you have made your purchases, grab a tabletop, and dig in!

And before we get back on the bus, a walk across that famous bridge.

As we get ready to cross The Old Bridge, my eye catches what could be nothing else but a Moravian Star.

As an alumnus of Moravian University, in Bethlehem, Pennsylvania, I am often viewing its image in alumni news stories. And almost in the identical timeframe that I took this picture, what should appear in my email (not Santa) but a detailed story on the history of the Moravian Star. So here is the link to it for those interested. https://news.moravian.edu/2024/12/18/history-moravian-star/

And I will see many more of this star in the following days. The Moravian Church started in what is now known as Czechia. After being removed, they migrated to Germany and the United States.

And who wouldn’t want to stay in this house for a week?

Before we move in, check this out. Flooding, in meters, does happen!

One last look at Heidelberg before heading back to our riverboat in Mannheim.

Shortly after arriving back on our boat, we cast off, heading south to Strasbourg, France. It will be a long overnight cruise on the Rhine River. OK, so not in Germany. But the northeast of France has had an off and on relationship with Germany over the years, including multiple wars. As a result, the City has been both French and German. Located within the region of Alsace-Lorraine, the dichotomy can be best seen within Strasbourg. Within some quarters of the City, the architecture is predominantly German, while other quarters are very French. The border between Germany and France is the Rhine River.

Strasbourg has a population of 300,000. The metropolitan area contains about 1,000,000 people. Most of their growth stems from multiple governmental activities located here. They include the official seat of the EU Parliament, the Council of Europe, as well as the European Court of Human Rights. Plenty of bureaucrats and politicians. As a result, a very, very expensive place to live.

But before we dive into the world-famous Christmas Markets of Strasbourg, we will dive into some of the wonderful food prepared on our boat, the Viva Tiara. With 150 people on this cruise, it is a mini–United Nations. Plenty of Finns, Germans, Brits, and even a big group from Mexico. In fact, there were a handful of Americans as well. Mealtimes must feel what it is like to dine in a UN restaurant.

The mussels and Tiramisu caught my eye. Not to mention all the wine available at mealtimes. Some very good German wine. Both purple and clear. Best get some good rest tonight. It will be a long day in Strasbourg tomorrow.

So, with a good night’s sleep in hand, we head on off to Strasbourg. Our bus (our boat is tied up on the Rhine, about a 15-minute bus ride from the central city) takes us to the entry point of the city. After a short walk, we are in front of the Strasbourg Opera.

In spite of the overcast and rain, the opera looks wonderful, and ready for Christmas. From the top of the steps we overlook, the first of seven Christmas Markets. Strasbourg is home of the largest Christmas markets in Europe. So, off we go!

On the way to our first market, we pass by the statue built to commemorate the composition of La Marseillaise, the national anthem of France, by Claude Joseph Rouget, in Strasbourg in 1792.

With plenty of buses, as well as a Metro, you would be wise to look both ways when crossing the street, so as not to get run over by the modern trams on which you can even take your bike with you if you get tired.

As we walked through the markets, I realized that something was different. Turns out that in Europe, virtually all decorations have no religious connotations. It has long been held that the markets are for all people. As such you will find no religious symbols in the decorations. And it bothers no one. Nor should it.

Let’s take a good look at all the window displays.

Fantastic!! Don’t think we have seen a better set of window displays anywhere. No wonder Strasbourg is THE world-famous Christmas market.

Strasbourg being both French and German, this window is not displaying just French pastries. It is displaying both French and German! No matter. Both are delicious!

Now that we have been supersaturated with rain and bright Christmas lights, time to explore Strasbourg, a very old city, which celebrated its 2,000th anniversary in 1988.

Not all of Strasbourg is filled with large churches, government buildings and modern offices. Much of it contains small streets and alleys, inside the ring of canals and small streams that surround the original city. And you would be correct in realizing it mirrors another famous island in France, the Île de la Cité, right in the heart of Paris, which contains the famous Notre Dame Cathedral.

Truly old and colorful, it’s hard to believe you are still in Strasbourg. You might have noticed that to connect the Ile’s waterways to the Rhine River, there are a series of small canals and locks to connect them.

Oh, oh. I missed another well-decorated building. Christmas is not Christmas without teddy bears.

Now this is a bit of an oddity. One of the oldest buildings in Strasbourg is a restaurant. Not just any restaurant, but a very unique one. You see, the diners dine on the ground floor. The kitchen, however, is on the top floor. While they do have a dumbwaiter, the waiters do walk up and down quite a bit.

And at the heart of Strasbourg, on the island is the Strasbourg, Cathedral of Notre Dame.

But, on the church grounds, there is not one, but two additional Christmas Markets!

After a full day of exploring the sights, sounds, smells, and tastes of Strasbourg, we slowly make our way back to catch the bus, then on to the Viva Tiara. We both agree that there is no city in the world that so celebrates Christmas as Strasbourg!

Mid-morning and time to tie-up to a dock in Speyer, about two kilometers away from the city centre. We had about four hours before our tour of Speyer and its Christmas Market. We made two major decisions. We would first walk about one kilometer to the Speyer Technik Museum and, two, have lunch in this delightful pub/restaurant. We are well-pleased with our shipboard fare, but had a real desire for some juicy bratwurst, and mashed potatoes, and a really good local beer. And since this pub was right next to the Viva Tiara, we would have it right after finishing our tour of the Museum.

It was a nice walk through the woods on a paved pathway to reach the museum. They have so many planes that some are outside the fence as well. A good sign!

So, we paid the entry fee (not cheap), and went in. We started with displays on the inside first. First up, motor vehicles.

Look closely. It’s not what you think.

As we walked through the vehicle displays, I was really itching to get to the planes. I do love planes! Finally, made it outside.

Up close and personal with my favorite plane.

The better half wanted to see what real basic economy looked like. Not sure that she appreciated the extra fuel it could carry.

My basic economy comes with a spectacular view, as long as it doesn’t rain. I saw Michael O’leary taking pictures. He is thinking about adapting his 737’s to this approach for Ryanair.

And the big boy in the background is the Antonov AN-124. It flies all over the world carrying the biggest pieces of freight in the world. There was one AN-225 built. Even much bigger, it was bombed by the Russians on the first day of the war in Kiev. (They have a bit of everything here. In the distance, you can see a German U-boat from WW 2.)

There is even a Soviet space shuttle, a good copy of the American version. It had one unmanned flight but then was destroyed when its hanger collapsed.

But how can you not appreciate the looks of this old Junker, workhorse of the German Airforce and civilian airlines.

And we got back to the pub with time to spare. And enough time to tuck into this German specialty, along with a good brew!

Right after we got finished with lunch, it was time to visit the Speyer Christmas market. Small town Speyer is no match for the scale of the Markets in Strasbourg. On the other hand, it was peaceful and Christmassy!

Now I have to say that the rotating spits of meats was mouthwatering. But, even on a holiday, I can’t keep on eating. Various kinds of pork, beef, and lamb. Sliced, and put on a bun.

As Christmas approaches, it was time to have a heart to heart with Santa. A good warm gluhwein facilitates the conversation.

Next up will be Koblenz. Still getting closer to Christmas. But not a single sign of any snow!

So much to do. You almost need a scorecard. A sheet like this went up every day. How else can we keep track. We arrived in Koblenz in the morning of the 24th of December. When the boat docked, we walked off the ship to work off our breakfast. Saw parts of the Old Towne and the waterfront. In this case it is at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle Rivers.

To say Koblenz is an old city would be a slight understatement. Early fortifications were built around 1000 BC. In 55 BC troops commanded by Julius Caesar built a bridge over the Rhine. From then on, every major event in Europe, and all its leaders, made their mark on Koblenz. Currently, there are about 150,000 residents of Koblenz.

Now, if you were really into yourself, a statue would have been erected to celebrate your greatness. Such was the case of the German emperor William I. Built in 1897, the Emperor was mounted on a 14 meter (46 foot horse). In total, it was about 31 meters (100ft) tall. It was destroyed by U.S artillery during WW2, but was re-built in 1953.

To ensure the Emperor was the center of attention, part of the Moselle River was filled in so that William was always seen by people passing by. The only problem was that this work has caused continual flooding in the land behind the statue. The statue of Emperor is surrounded by all the flags of the German federal republics. There is also an American flag, commemorating German support for the United States after 9-11. Frankly, to me it is an overpowering monument. The monument, a bit too much.

So many buildings in Germany are old or reconstructed after the war. But so colorful, contrasting with the truly old buildings. Much of Koblenz was destroyed during the war. This is view is directly in front of our moored riverboat.

Before our tour started, we continued our walk-through parts of Koblenz, showcasing the remodeling of older buildings. As it was past noon on Christmas Eve, the shops were starting to close, even on streets with more Moravian Stars! A few more sights, and then we will go back to the riverboat, for Christmas Eve dinner. But, in Germany it is different. They do the Christmas dinner on Christmas day. This played havoc with the Finns on board this cruise, as they always celebrate on Christmas Eve. German boat, German rules!

At last, Christmas morning. We are tied up in the small but colorful town of Eltville am Rhein. A clear calm morning, designed for exploring on foot.

So, after a breakfast on a quiet Christmas day, we head on out to walk through the town.

I would have to say, it’s exactly as I expected it to look. But where are all the people. Perhaps opening up their presents. The timber-framed houses are exactly as I knew they would.

I bet none of you have ever seen a Christmas advent calendar look quite like this one!

Ah, a German beer garden! Unfortunately, it is a tad bit cold for a good beer.

Back to our riverboat, in time for lunch, as we head on towards Mainz.

After all that really good, but very rich food, time for some basic fatty food. So, we head on back to the bistro, at the stern.

As we dine on our burgers, the world passes by, or we pass the world. In this case, we get to see where our wine comes from. Some of the best wines in the world come from this part of Germany. Next stop, Mainz, with its population of 220,000 people.

A short walk from our riverboat, along the Rhine River, and we are standing, facing the most prominent feature of Mainz, the Mainz Cathedral, or also called St. Martin’s Cathedral. It looms over the city from most locations. The concrete statue, with Deutschland inscribed, is a symbolic representation of Germany’s unity and identity. (And another one of those Moravian Stars)

And if you turn around, facing the Rhine River, you will see this sign.

Just another way to let you know that in southwest Germany, wine is a most important part of life and commerce. And in this sign, you will note the direction to and mileage from other worldwide wine producers.

So, let’s go inside the Cathedral. But, of course, we have to pass two more Moravian Stars first!

Upon entering the cathedral, two things immediately hit me. First, it was absolutely massive! And it was ever so quiet. The new cathedral consisted of a double chancel with two transepts. The main hall was built in the typical triple-nave cross” pattern. As was usual at that time no vault was included because of structural difficulties relating to the size of the building. Six towers rose from the church. A cloister was enclosed in the structure. Sandstone was the primary building material used.

Another interesting point about this cathedral is that there are two choir lofts and organs.

Adjacent to the Cathedral, is the original location of the Gutenberg Museum. It has now been moved, and we will visit it later.

And now, off to visit the beautiful old town, with much of it restored. About half of Mainz was destroyed during WW2. Many buildings, as in Frankfurt were reconstructed.

I realize that many people coming to Germany look for great places to drink beer. Quite logical. Some of us, however, take advantage of our location to have some great German wine!

While the first building is “new,” the second, third and, last buildings combine the original with the new. All in all, we liked how they blended old and new in the city.

On our walk to the new Gutenberg Museum, we were immediately confronted with the true horror of the Second World War.  Mainz was one of the ShUM-cities—a league formed by the cities of Speyer, Worms and Mainz—which are referred to as the cradle of Ashkenazi Jewish life and as the center of Jewish life during medieval times. The Jewish heritage of these cities is one of a kind and has been declared the UNESCO World Heritage Site of ShUM sites of Speyer, Worms and Mainz.

During the War, millions of Jews were rounded up by the Nazis, taken to concentration camps, and most executed. In the City of Mainz, the citizens went from building to building throughout the city, erecting plaques in front the buildings where the Jewish residents were taken from their homes, commemorating their lives up until that moment. It was a very sobering experience for all of us on the tour.

St. Christoph’s Church

Except for its Romanesque tower with pairings of two arched windows, dating from around 1240, the present building dates from the decades around 1280 until the 1330. In the 17th and 18th century, the church was renovated and redesigned in Baroque architecture.

During World War II  it was razed except for the external walls. During the great air raid on Mainz on 12 and 13 August 1942 St. Christopher burned down, whereas a renewed bombing on 27 February 1945 with tactical demolition bombs brought the vaults to collapse. The outer walls have been restored and protected on the north side by concrete columns. The new buttresses have been provided with a relief by the Mainz sculptor Heinz Hemrich carrying symbolic representations of the city’s history. The church now is designed as a war memorial. A commemorative plaque in the floor tells the embedded text ″Den Toten zum Gedenken/ Den Lebenden zur Mahnung″ ″In memory of the dead / as a reminder for the Living”.

The man, himself, and his bible.

I find it quite ironic that we so wanted to see “his” bible. He first printed his bible in the 1450’s. And it held us in awe. Yet at the same time, so many people today read little or no printed words on paper anymore. Without electricity, we would be back to reading the bible on paper again. Will that ever happen?

Well, the day’s tour is now over. The week’s tour is now over. And it went so fast.

And to any Moravian alumni out there, maybe it will inspire you to check out the Stars for yourself.

So, it’s back to the Viva Tiara, for one last dinner, one last —— of wine, a good night’s sleep, and we will wake up back in Frankfurt. An early breakfast and then off to the airport. We both highly recommend taking a Christmas tour on the Rhine and Mainz Rivers.

And a very happy and prosperous New Year’s to all.

(U l-Ewwel tas-Sena kuntenta u prospera ħafna għal kulħadd.)