The government has just released the daily count on the Coronavirus. They released figures showing five new cases overnight, bringing it up to 134. Of the five new cases, three are from people who traveled to the Continent, while two caught it from someone in Malta. So far, there has been no dramatic ramping up of the cases. And very fortunately, there is only one person who is in critical, but stabilized condition. There have been no fatalities to this point. Being an island nation can be helpful from time to time.
Like most places, no public gatherings allowed; bars, clubs and restaurants are closed. Grocery stores and pharmacies remain open. Other businesses are shut down. Construction sites, for the most, remain working. The airlines cannot enter or leave Malta. And ferries to Sicily remain shut down.
Like restaurants the world over, creativity by the owners are keeping us in great food, to take away. Last night it was Thai street food, and two nights ago it was great pizza. So, we enjoy good food, while helping the neighborhood economy.
There was a piece of good news. The government just opened up a new electricity scheme that will enable new users of solar panels to offset their electrical usage by getting rate reductions for using solar. Not only will that save us a bundle of money on our bills, it will be another step in making Malta a more renewable energy friendly country. We will be getting solar panels in a couple of months, in time for the really hot and sunny part of the year. Keeping our cool.
In previous blogs, I mentioned how fireworks crazed the Maltese are. One of the downsides is that periodically, they go boom! Yesterday was such a time. We had a very violent lightning, rain and thunderstorm in the late afternoon. Then we heard an even louder boom. Later we found out that lightning struck a fireworks factory.
Virtually all the villages and towns have at least one fireworks factory to supply the summer Festas. This is a fairly regular occurrence. But, no one was hurt.
So, be safe out there. Keep practicing six feet (two meter) separation, wash your hands continually, and keep a good attitude. It will get better. Solidarity means we care about everyone, everywhere. When the world gets healthier, the economies will get better. Put the health of our world first.
Like everywhere the world over, the Coronavirus has reached Malta. Still under 20 cases, all from persons infected in countries in mainland Europe. Flights have been reduced, eliminating flights to and from certain countries. And anyone entering Malta, must self-quarantine themselves for 14 days. That effectively eliminates tourism for the next few weeks.
Day to day life is slowing down. Bus drivers wearing masks. Stores are closing down. I guess restaurants will be next. Just like in many countries, a run on toilet paper. Still not exactly sure why. Also, since the prime source of water comes from desalination, many people drink bottled water. So, now a run on that as well.
Schools and government offices are closed. There has been some talk of a complete shutdown. That appears to be off the table for the time being.
But the weather is stunning. Warm enough for us to eat breakfast on the terrace. And thanks to E-books, courtesy of libraries, we are can read our favorite authors.
One consequence of the virus, shooting for the new Jurassic World 3 movie has been placed on hold. There was some filming here in Malta. A good thing they placed a hold. If not, pre-historic creatures would have gained access to the Parliament of Malta.
That’s the Malta Parliament in the back right.
I have two pieces of advice for my readers.
Wash your hands (you know the tune).
Stay at least three feet from anyone else (just like they always do in Finland.)
Get your sunglasses out, the parade is starting up!
By now we know that the Maltese love parades, bands and parties. What better way to combine them all than with their annual celebration of Carnival, just before Lent. The Grand Parade this year was on a Sunday afternoon in Valletta. With a total population in Malta of 500,000, someone must have tipped the island over on its side and at least half of them ended up in Valletta, which has a population of about 7,000 people on a normal day. That, and you can throw in the politicians and civil servants that make up the Maltese government.
As newcomers, we wanted to experience our first Carnival here. During the Carnival week, there are many events all over the island, and Gozo. We chose the Grand Parade. According to the official website, the parade would start at 12:30 in front of the Castille, the office of the Prime Minister. Considering that irony has a place in many floats, it was ironic that it starts in front of the very building where protesters were throwing eggs at the former Prime Minister in November. He resigned in January. With a new Prime Minister now, people used the stairs in front of the building to watch the parade.
The Castille, is the Office of the Prime Minister.
We arrived in Valletta at 11AM, hoping to snare good spots to watch. When we got off the bus, we noticed that all the floats were getting ready at the Graneries, now a large open area which in the olden days had buildings used to store grain. Today all that remains are “stumps” of the former columns throughout the site. Bands were playing (naturally), and food trucks were ensnaring willing people. Whole families were on hand to view the floats, scattered about getting last minute checks. For many Maltese, it was an opportunity to let their children dress up, since it is the Carnival. Some adults played along, and dressed up, too.
In every direction, crew members were climbing over and around their elaborate floats, making sure oversize arms could move, turtles can lunge out to either side, lights were working, and giving last minute touch-ups to their characters. Not to mention loading up hidden storage spots with soda, water and beer. (It is a long parade- six hours. Six hours from where we stood. For those near the finish line, it would end about 9:00PM.)
What immediately struck us was just how elaborate, intricate, mechanical and ironic they were. More on the irony later. We saw arms moving, up and down, back and forth. We even saw a train moving around a float. And the overall impression – we have never seen so many, brilliantly colorful floats.
After viewing all the floats, we followed a band away from the Graneries, over the moat on to the bridge that takes you into Valletta. Did I mention lots of people? Yes, indeed. We made our way into the city (Il-Belt as it’s called in Maltese), past the Parliament, turning right to the Castille. One thing that really highlights the enormity of the crowds is the fact that the roads are very narrow (designed to repel the Turkish invaders in the 1500’s.)
We finally reached our planned location to watch the parade. Slowly, people all started congregating around the steps at the Castille, as well as the square in front. Of course, this is Malta. So, by Maltese time, the 12:30 start became 1:15. At first, we didn’t think there were many people there. After it started, it filled up fast. Every float that came by stopped, enabling dancers and other members of the “cast” to perform, before eventually moving forward again. Sometimes, with the others around us, we would move forward with the parade, getting different vantage points. And then moving back. No formal viewing areas. Stood wherever you wanted. Truly up close and personal with the floats and performers. In fact, we just moved along with the floats and people marching the parade. No barricades to stand behind. At times, we were standing right in the middle of parade. Fun!
After a while, we caught the irony. There was the float that prominently featured the former chief of staff to the former Prime Minister. He is currently being investigated for shady financial dealings in and around Malta and the possibility of being part of the murder conspiracy surrounding the assassination of the slain Maltese journalist Daphne Caruana Galizia. Heavy stuff that can, with the right presentation, poke fun, while making some serious statements.
The dethroned former Chief of Staff to the former Prime Minister.
Oh, and you can bet your last Euro, that the President of the United States, Donald Trump, took a few hits as well. In fact, a voice from one of the floats said: “Ladies and Gentlemen, the President of the United States, Donald Trump. And, as with one voice, a loud round of boos!
I think they caught the moment.
At around 6PM, we started losing energy. And only about half the floats had gone by. So, we started making our way out, the way we came. When we got to Republic Street, the main drag in town, we stopped for a cup of tea and a cappuccino, along with suitable muffins. At that point the floats we saw about five hours before, started passing us by. Time to leave. But, come next year, we can count on coming again. A wonderful spectacle!
While we were waiting for our bus home, the parade kept on coming!
If you are considering coming to Malta on holiday, there are two great times to visit: during Carnival (the week before Lent), or in the summer, to enjoy the Festas and fireworks. Or, if you like your first trip, come back to see the other!
We try to go walking every day if we can. Yes, it is healthful; but it is quite enjoyable, too. If we can get in two or three miles a day, we are happy. But the thing is, in Naxxar, it is also a history lesson. Most places we pass are several hundred years old. Some buildings have been re-purposed several times. We are very fortunate indeed. It is one of the reasons we wanted to retire in Malta.
Today we are going to follow a specific walk through our historic home, Naxxar. Not a long walk, only 1.59km. It does take us through the oldest parts of our village. The main street we travel is named Triq (street) Santa Luċija. Over the years this street has been the hub for commercial activities as well as social life. Back in 1874 there were bakeries, nine blacksmiths, butchers, shoemakers, wine makers and a silversmith. But what makes this street unique in Malta is that it has fourteen alleys (Sqaq Nru) running off it. The most off any street in Malta. Not only, but there are fourteen statues on the houses on this street.
The walk, and street, starts at the front of the parish church. On either side of the street are houses over 300 years old. Oh, there is one rule to follow on this street. Come to think of it, on any street in Malta. If you are walking, be very careful. Drivers tend not to see pedestrians, ever. Sidewalks are small or non-existent. So, if you are staring through the lens of your camera, at least keep your ears open!
Depending when you finish this walk, reward yourself with a breakfast, lunch or dinner. Or, just a cold one! Here are a few of our favorites. All are either directly near the church or in an alley off Triq Santa Luċija.
Of all the countries we have visited, Malta is the location where many businesses use free Facebook rather than setting up a website. Either way, the food and wine are excellent, and service is friendly and good. If you opt for some wine, try a Maltese label. Tasty and low price. While you can always eat a hamburger anywhere, you will find excellent pasta in these restaurants. Ta’ Stringi also makes a mean pizza, too. With Sicily a short ferry ride away, the Italian influence in food and language is everywhere. And don’t forget the presence of several Indian focused menus.
The walk should take about an hour, unless you take lots of pictures like me. Or you just let your mind wander about what living here four hundred years ago would be like.
Start by standing in the Pjazza Vittorja, which is surrounded by the parish church, the Peace Band Club and the Palazzo Parisio. From there you will start your walk down Triq Santa LuĊija.
Directly in front of the church.
Naxxar parish church, built in 1616.
The Peace Band Club, formerly the Palazzo Vittoria.
The Palazzo Parisio, a must visit to see the historic home and furniture, the truly beautiful gardens and way too expensive Luna Café.
Our unofficial tour guide and overall grump.
Now begin your walk through the narrow triq. Your head will be on a swivel, as you look left and right (don’t forget the cars coming from behind you). You will reach the first alley.
An old house with a very distinctive Maltese balcony, along with some wrought iron grill works.
Some alleys are filled with ornate doors and gardens. Others, not so much.
For some, unknown reasons, the Maltese love birds. The more, the better.
Imagine how cool this alley must be in the heat of the summer months.
it takes a lot of dedication, and watering to keep this landscaping alive.
One of the 14 statues that line Triq Santa Luċija, built into corners of the homes. And note the net to deter the birds.
Behind the old stone walls, a very modern B&B exists, complete with swimming pool.
This building houses dual chapels, the 1500 St. Lucy’s Chapel and the Nativity of our Lady.
While some prefer simplistic landscaping,
others prefer the ornate.
A very innovative doorbell.
I guess it may seem different, with religious statues on many homes, but, remember that the people of Malta have a deeply religious history.
A favorite restaurant of ours, located in the alley.
This converted 450 year old farmhouse serves a mix up of Italian/Maltese/Indian. Our hosts are Mike and Bahj.
A great example of Maltese doorknockers.
Whether simple or ornate, flowers play an important part of Maltese landscaping.
Some alleys represent the minimalist.
While others represent the utilitarian, with a very small touch of color.
With the abundance of old stone work, many plants just climb up to the sun.
And still others remain a place of commerce.
As we near the end of our walk, the alleys cease to be ornate.
And when we reach our final alley, it more resembles an open air garage.
The exclamation point to our walk is the St. John the Baptist Chapel. It is shaped as an eight pointed cupola. It is still in use today.
So, we made it back to Helsinki, in time to jam into a trolley car, headed back to the train station. Just so that you know, if you try to catch a trolley after getting off the ferry, it will be very crowded. Either lots of patience is required or being able to push forward. Once on the trolley, you will not be able to move. But fear not, most people get off at the train station to either catch a train, a bus or the Metro. Back at the apartment, we shoved our bags into the hallway, and headed across the street to Prisma, to pick up food stuffs for breakfast. Then, sleep.
In the morning, over coffee, tea and bread, we decided that we would like to head down to the Esplanade (home for pricey shops, restaurants and hotels. There is a nice park in between directions. A great place to browse and see Moomin. All the while moving towards the harbor and the outdoor market.
This particular version of Moomin is actually a floor lamp. To really get into local lore, make sure you go to Moominland, in Naantali, during the summer.
What items did we want to see, but not likely to buy? I finally got to sample a moose dog. The thing is, in Finland, you don’t just order a hot dog (pork or all beef). Here you must decide if you want the above, or reindeer, moose, as well as other combos. This is important stuff people! So, we spent a relaxing time walking around (and not spending!).
Typically European, temporary shelters are installed to take you out of the cold for while, while drinking more Glogg and eating my first moose dog. Very tasty! And for those diet conscious, low in fat.
Fortified, and raring to go, we walked through the outdoor stalls along the waterfront.
This sailing vessel is always here at the base of the harbor, with the city hall and the dome church in the background.
Now, if I hadn’t just eaten a moose dog, I would have opted for a plate of fried lake “herring”. But they did give me a sample.
Asa result of their past Russian masters, this remarkably beautiful orthodox church. (No pictures allowed inside.)
Yes ladies. These are the real thing.
Something about these sculptures caught my attention.
Walking along the street, these bike racks caught our attention. Utilitarian, but not boring.
Probably the most photographed location in Helsinki, this is the Dome, Lutheran Church located in Senate Square, near to all the government buildings and harbor.
Everything sells.
One last stop before we head on home for the day. We stopped into the indoor market along side the harbor. At one time, it was filled with a myriad of shops, selling, produce, fish, meat and other items. Now, sadly, it is mostly being taken over by restaurants. If you want to see a real market hall in action, head on over to the Hakeneimi Market Hall ( http://www.hakaniemenkauppahalli.fi/kauppiaat/ ). It is located two stops away on the Metro.
All kinds of cold and warm smoked salmon and whitefish.
In case you may have need of a reindeer skin. Not very soft, however.
For those considering a trip to Helsinki for the holiday season, there is a way cool way to do both Helsinki and Stockholm. From either city, the Viking Line and the Tallink/Silja lines have ferries that depart from either direction at 5PM. Each ship has several restaurants, buffets, cafeteria, bars and casinos. And, to the delight of most passengers, there are very large duty free shops. Since you don’t arrive until around 8AM (or 7AM, depending on time zones), get a cabin for a good night’s sleep. If you take this ferry in the summer, it will be light most of the way, ensuring you have breathtaking views of the many hundreds of islands you pass in the archipelago. And if you go to Stockholm, be sure to visit Skansen ( https://www.skansen.se/en/welcome-to-skansen)
At the end of the first week in January, the annual LUX light show is put on by professionals throughout the world, in the lighting business, as well as by local school kids. Located within a mile area, it attracts over 600,000 people, young and old, to marvel at the creations. If you go, make sure to bundle up. It runs for one week, in the evening. Way cool!
bet you don’t recognize it from the day!
Helsinki school kids made these lanterns hanging over the paths in the park.
Look closely at this sign on the lake. Very closely.
While it looks realistic, it did not come down from Mars.
And for the first time, we celebrated our anniversary while we were in Finland. We had dinner at our favorite restaurant in Helsinki ( https://www.kolmekruunua.fi/en/ ). No visit to Helsinki would be complete without it. Open since 1952, it has all the charm of an upscale neighborhood semi-casual restaurant. Very welcoming, comfortable, with excellent service. And a great place to seek out what Finns like to eat.
Could be the world’s best salmon soup.
Better half opted for fried herring with mashed potatoes, beets and pickled cukes.
I went for the duck with a side of creamy risotto.
And then, our flight back home to Malta (Santa was too tired to fly us back), where I have several blogs ready to create. It was kind of weird seeing roses in bloom here at home. Hope you enjoyed your holidays, as we did.
We had a wonderful six weeks in Finland and Estonia for Christmas. We had great expectations for a white Christmas and New Year when we hitched a ride north with Santa Claus. To say the least, we were surprised with the weather. When Santa landed his sleigh, he had to lower the wheels. Until the very morning we left the “Frozen North”, not a single flake fell. In fact, the average temperature, usually around -5C, was averaging about 5C. The Finns call this kind of Christmas: “Black Christmas.” And as it continued through the end of January when we left, it is also called black winter.
Normally, Finnish children get their first set of skis when they are three. Unless their parents took them above the Arctic Circle, the skis remained in the closets. It was so warm, even the pussy willows were in bloom (about three months early). I also noticed that it was so warm that the stream hadn’t frozen!
The pussy willow normally starts blooming in March, not early January. Not even any ice on the stream.
Since Santa didn’t get us there until 1AM, we slept in and slept some more. Then, we headed off by Metro (subway) and trolley (on tracks) to the ferry line, for our two-hour trip to Tallinn, the old Hanseatic city of the middle ages and current capital of Estonia, located on the Gulf of Finland.
Would you believe, people using umbrellas to keep the snow off at the Christmas market in Tallinn.
Estonia’s early success as an independent country was as a result of their creating a tech hub in their country. Their first home-grown success was Skype. Estonians are really tech savvy. Over 98% of all services available to Estonians are on-line. How could they not be tech savvy? Besides Skype, there are Bolt and TransferWise. Not only is Estonia a financial success story, they care about the environment and people. In Tallinn, all public transport is free for all Estonians.
The onion domes of Alexander Nevski Orthodox Cathedral built in the 19th century stands between the Estonian Parliament (the pink building behind) and Chapel of the Consistory of the Estonian Evangelical Lutheran Church (yellow in the front). It was built in the 17th century.
The heart of Tallinn is the Old Town. Dating back several hundred years, this walled part of the city is ground zero for the tourism industry. Great shopping, hotels and restaurants abound. Our hotel, the Kalev Spa and Hotel and Waterpark ( https://kalevspa.ee/en/home/ ) is located right on the edge of Old Town. And it is a short walk from the ferry terminal. Good rooms, with a view, good restaurant, spa, and an absolutely fantastic waterpark, including an indoor Olympic size pool. In fact it was used in the Olympics as training facility when the Summer Olympics were held in Moscow 1980.
Houses of Tallinn
Lithuanian Embassy
Pepper Sack restaurant
A real fixer-upper
City Hall in Market Square
A mix of all architecture, and very old.
Christmas markets are a very big European tradition. They are normally held outdoors in the local market squares. Normally, they are open from around the 12th of December until the 21st. Tallinn is different in that besides Christmas, many Russians still live in Estonia, so they are celebrating the Russian New Year in early January. And many Russians travel to Tallinn, as well as Helsinki in early January.
So many sights to see in the Market. We walked around and around. The better half immediately zoomed in on the booth that always sells strange looking stuffed rats, rabbits and cats. (We have a few at home.) And now, we have another one.
A marzipan artisan at work painting Santa.
Now that is a scary weathervane.
For a religious figure, he is rather threatening.
A sculpture artist next to our hotel sculpts animals, including this cat.
Guess someone left their bike, and the next person by painted it!
Why wouldn’t I buy one of everything he is selling.
As far as the better half is concerned, she would have bought everything, if we had room for them.
From morning until night, the Christmas market is a riot of color and activity.
At any rate, we got cold, standing around. So, as a good Christmas tradition calls for when browsing at a Christmas market ( https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=tallinn+christmas+market+2019&qpvt=tallinn+christmas+market+2019&FORM=IGRE ) we had some glogg (a combo of wine, spirits and spices, all heated up). And some food from the stands. The favorite it seems, for all but us, is blood sausage, served with a side of sauerkraut. We opted for fried dumplings. After all, with Christmas Eve dinner a couple of hours away, we had no room for the sausages, either. They looked very tasty though!
All manner of sausages and pork chops, served with sauerkraut and potatoes. The one that looks blackened, is not. It is the dreaded blood sausage!
Our preferred activity was walking throughout Old Town. I love to photograph the very colorful doors that adorn all the homes throughout Tallinn and Estonia. This trip enabled me to document a whole slew of new ones for later printing. I also noted something that I previously had not paid much attention. That would be the very ornate shop signs throughout the town. Saves on the electrical bill.
It would seem that the national pastime is to decorate one’s home with ornate and colorful doors.
On our final day in Tallinn, we did some last-minute sightseeing, and dropped our bags off at the ferry terminal. We had two last things to do. First, we went to tour the KGB Spy Museum on the top floor (23) of the Hotel Viro in the center of Tallinn. It’s probably the biggest tourist attraction in Tallinn.
After the Soviets built Tallinn’s luxurious, but imposing, Hotel Viru in the 1970s, Estonians joked that the building was made of microconcrete, as in concrete and microphones. The Soviets contracted out the construction to Finnish companies and their workers. I am certain they were puzzled as to why many rooms were requested to include certain “enhancements”.
Few people were ever allowed on the hotel’s top floor, which the Soviet managers insisted contained only technical rooms. When the KGB fled the country in the early 1990s, the newly liberated Estonians discovered that the technical rooms housed elaborate, vintage James Bond-esque listening equipment.
The hotel’s new owners kept the rooms exactly as the KGB left them. On the door of those technical rooms is now written “There’s nothing here” in both English and Estonian, which alludes to the official answer given when anyone asked what was behind the door. Visitors now can take guided tours that focus not only on the more absurd elements of living in a surveillance state, but on the strange history of the hotel, which includes prostitution, espionage, and some of the best chicken to be had during the occupation.
Not sure if returning American tourists/government officials understood why they kept getting the same rooms. Certain rooms were set up well for recording any conversation and taking pictures through holes in the wall.
In a local’s words, find out what it was like.
“To ensure that staff was honest serving all those rich foreigners, a little bag with a snap clasp left behind on a table in Viru Hotel might have seemed like a windfall to workers trying to survive in Soviet-controlled Estonia. But anyone trying to make off with the purse rather than dropping it off with hotel security would find that opening it triggered a small explosion, leaving the culprit’s face burned — and easily identifiable — for weeks.
This is the kind of thing one learns at the Hotel Viru’s KGB Museum, which comprises four rooms of the functioning hotel’s once mysterious 23rd floor. On that top floor, despite its stunning views of the city, the KGB agents crouched next to listening devices in windowless rooms and schemed to install hidden cameras throughout the hotel and microphones into room phones.
And there were microphones everywhere: The hotel — which was built as a propaganda device, to show foreigners visiting Tallinn that life under communism was just as sumptuous as life under capitalism — operated with an entirely separate ecosystem from the rest of the city, with its own dentists, pharmacy and doctors. And of course there was entertainment – a cabaret of rather bare skin type, good restaurant and of course a bar where you could meet foreigners. They also had a fleet of cars with multilingual, friendly and helpful drivers who were of course listening to their passengers’ every word and reported back to KGB.
The 23rd floor (actually, the elevator shows only 22 floors. You have to climb a set of stairs to get to the 23rd floor). It was swiftly vacated in 1991 when it became clear Estonia was going to gain its independence. The museum is a kitsch paradise, with labels in four languages on every artifact, mannequins dressed in Soviet uniforms, phones with their wires hastily ripped out and a cheerful Estonian guides conducting tours in multiple languages.
“You have to remember, you had to be there,” explained our guide, who was born in Tallinn. “It’s hard to explain if you weren’t here.” Having lived under Soviet rule is key to guiding people around the museum, he explains, though he maintains more of a sense of humor about Estonia’s relationship with Russia than some on the tour who asked him in hushed tone if he fears an imminent Russian invasion. He just laughs the question off in a manner recognizable to anyone who’s ever seen a Californian asked “Aren’t you afraid of earthquakes?”
But in Estonia and in Hotel Viru in the 1980s, that fear was real: KGB agents had people disappearing to prisons in Leningrad and Murmansk and even to cells at their Tallinn headquarters — now also a museum, though, our guide cautions, much less fun than the KGB Museum. When the KGB fled the hotel that night in 1991, he says, hotel staff waited two full months to break down the door to the rooms the agents had occupied. What if they had rigged the door and it would explode, or if they were still in there? Or worse, what if they were coming back?”
I would highly recommend this tour, out of the past, to all. Seems like 1990 is a century ago. Many people lived through those times and remember it well. To this day, many Estonians have little love for those Soviets (now Russians) who stayed rather than return to Russia. Many were born in Estonia and have no real understanding for Russia.
Built by the Finns for the Soviet union, to spy on Westerners and to provide luxury for visiting Soviet dignitaries.
The Soviet built phone was heavy enough for a weightlifter.
All about Comrade Brezhnev
Inside the 23rd floor, just as they left it in 1991
Spy equipment to listen in on all guest rooms.
Not exactly out of the transistor world.
Put a hole in a guest room wall, and you insert camera into opening, and take pictures.
Crude, but effective, Soviet listening devices.
One night, they just opened the door, and the spies on duty just walked away. They left everything as you see it.
Every room was bugged.
Our last stop on our latest Tallinn adventure was to our favorite restaurant, The Farm. ( http://restaurant.farm/?lang=en ) I would urge all who visit Tallinn to stop in for dinner or even lunch (the menu is the same.) They are located near the main entrance of Old Town by the arches.
The salad surpassed the ordinary.
The better half had the rissotto with a pile of mushrooms.
I opted for the superb duck breast.
An absolutely wonderful experience, both food and service.
The lobby table served the animals in off the street.
We took a brisk stroll through the early evening winds coming off the Gulf of Finland back to the ferry terminal, reclaimed our bags and climbed aboard our ferry back to Helsinki. A great five nights. And, we will be back. Estonia is a great place for a spa vacation, sightseeing, and talking with the wonderful people we met. An added benefit is that Estonia has not been widely known as a great winter and summer tourist locale. As a result, the crowds are not as big as they will get.
Next up will be our winter stay in Helsinki, along with a great light show. Should be available for you in a couple of days.
I know, I am getting ready for our flight with Santa in his sleigh to the frozen north. But I can’t help it. I was browsing through my photos when I realized that I had many pictures of cats. Not just any cats, but alert and ready for action, even if that means with their eyes closed.
Maltese people love cats, even if they do let them run to fend for themselves occasionally. But I captured them being, well, being cats, in all their moods.
Hope you like them, Amy.
Enjoy!
Hope you all have a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year (Il-Milied it-Tajjeb U Is-Sena T-Tajba) and a Happy Hanukkah.
By the Promenade in Sleima, they erected a statue to the prolific cats of Malta.
The security guard at the entrance to San Anton Gardens.
Catching a few zzzz’s is standard.
Some prefer full-on sun bathing.
Not often you can sneak up on a cat. Look up!
She should have been here now to feed us.
I will dine when I prefer, by myself.
These cats give a new meaning to a window overhang.
I know it is because the temperature rarely gets above 65F (18C). Oh, and there is rain from time to time. Another sign is that all the children are bouncing off the walls, getting very excited. And one last sign is that the Christmas lights are now on in our village of Naxxar. We knew that even before we saw them because there was a short but very noisy display of fireworks. This is, after all, Malta. So, out we went, seeing the first street lights at the end of our street. Then it was off to dinner.
Leave our home, turn right, walk a half a block, and we are at Triq Parrocca (Parish Street). The start of Christmas.
The better half loves Risotto. This came with mushrooms.I had the tagliatelle with squid ink and shellfish.(The Daily Grub) Yum!
Then it was time for a stroll through the village to see how it was looking; all ready for Christmas. And it does look ready!
Day or night, the Naxxar Parish Church looks spectacular.
Every neighborhood has their own lighting.
And of course, the Band Clubs participate… and celebrate.
And everyone decorates their front doors.
From the church, looking down Triq Labour (our main street).
Now that is some view. I do wonder, of course, just how Santa will make it without snow.
Inside the church, an international choral festival, with choirs from all over Europe.
Two weeks and we will be heading off to Finland for a winter holiday. I made arrangements with Santa Claus for us to hitch a ride with him up to the Frozen North. He is making his last-minute checks of naughty and nice in Malta before heading back to the North Pole. (It really is in Rovaniemi, Finland.) https://www.visitrovaniemi.fi/love/santa-claus-magic-of-christmas/ He will drop us off in Helsinki.
Hope you all have a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year (Il-Milied it-Tajjeb U Is-Sena T-Tajba) and a Happy Hanukkah.
Will Blog with you all in 2020! With many pictures from the Frozen North.
When we moved into our flat in Naxxar, we knew the village had history. The fact that the village motto is Prior Credidt, “First to believe”, is a certain tip-off. As the ancestral residents supposedly rescued St. Paul from a shipwreck, while on his way to Rome, Naxxar has history.
And lo and behold, one of our neighbors, three blocks removed, owns the Parisio Palace and Gardens. As we were determined to get to know the neighborhood, we set out to explore it, along with our guest from Vancouver.
The backside of the church is a short two blocks from our home. And the Palace is located right across from the frontside of the church.
Built in 1733 by the Portuguese Grand Master Manoel de Vilhena, it was acquired in 1898 by Marquis Guiseppe Scicluna, local banker, philanthropist and pillar of the local community (also quite rich). His great granddaughter and her daughter are the present owners. They have overseen its restoration, as well as the magnificent gardens. Not bad for a family home in our neighborhood. The three focal points for visitors are the palace, the gardens, as well as a well-respected restaurant, Luna.
When moved into our flat on the back side of the village church, we had no idea of the presence of such a spectacular neighbor on the front side of the church. Lgawdu l-sbu Ħija u splendor. (Enjoy the beauty and splendor.)
Someday, when we save up enough money, we may try the restaurant.
The entrance to the Palazzo. Sure sets the mood.
Ornate is the least one can say,
The family coat of arms on the ceiling.
Somehow, I don’t think the dinner table was set for us.
Nothing like a gold screen for a little privacy.
Think he was there to guard the silverware.
Not to mention the watchful eye of the palace cat.
Between the palace/restaurant and gardens is a wonderful place for breakfast or a drink.
Not exactly like the wall at the back of our home in Kenmore.
Who wouldn’t want to stroll through this garden.
And just behind the garden wall, was the local mill.
Directly across the front entrance of the Palace, is the main entrance to the local Naxxar parish church.
When moved into our flat behind the village church, we had no idea of the presence of such a spectacular neighbor on the front side of the church. We have many more pictures of the Palace and gardens. If interested in seeing them, please let me know. Happy to share.
Lgawdu l-sbu Ħija u splendor. (Enjoy the beauty and splendor.)
After the hiatus, it’s time to get back to the blog. In the past couple of months, we have been busy buying and closing on our new home in Naxxar, a village of about 14,000 people. Located just a few kilometres from our rental apartment in Lija, we are located just two blocks from the village parish church: Our Lady of Victories.
The Naxxar Parish Church, dedicated to Our Lady of Victories, was built between 1616 and 1630. Our apartment is two blocks from the church.
Like much in Malta, Naxxar dates to
pre-historic times. The early residents helped rescue the shipwrecked Saint
Paul; and were the first converts to Christianity.
As with our time in Ħal Lija, we note just
how quiet it is, although located just stone’s throw from the village plaza.
Unlike Lija, Naxxar has a bigger central core. With nearby shops, restaurants
and a supermarket, we are only a short walk from about everything. In fact, our
closest bus stop is now only half a block away, as opposed to a seven-minute
walk.
Getting back to exploring Malta, our next blog will present the Palazzo Parisio and gardens. Hope you all have had a wonderful summer and are now looking forward to the cooler weather and the upcoming holiday season. Il-Vaganzi T-Tajba. (Happy holidays.)
Seattle to Malta 6,087 miles (9,796 kilometers)...... And a lifetime. 