When we moved to Malta for our retirement, we first lived in Ħal Lija for seven months. It is a village of about 3,500 people. A somewhat upscale village, it was very quiet, with few businesses and shops. But it has a very wonderful sense about it. And we loved walking around it. The heart of Lija was around its parish church. This view was of it during the Festa in 2019.
Like all parish churches in Malta, the Lija parish is covered in lights to make it sparkle at night.
All band clubs, the police stations, local council and shops radiate out from the church. On one of our early walks, we were two blocks on the other side of the church, discovering the typical Maltese narrow streets, shops and restaurants.
This is one reason we moved to Malta, the narrow streets, lined with terraced homes. On this one you can see a wine bar on the right: Tal-Villagg (which we loved, sitting at a table outside).A bottle of wine and some appetizers on a warm evening. On the left is a typical bar, where locals congregate most nights. Then there is the Lija Athletic club, home of the local premier league football-soccer- team. We dined there many times, on pizza, burgers, pasta and rabbit. And to its left, Bahia. For some reason we never got to eat there. Seemed fancy. Then we found out it was recently named by Michelin as a One Star restaurant.So, we decided to try it. Absolutely wonderful.When we entered, we found out that the building was over 250 years old. Not as old as many buildings in Malta, but still, with character. Turns out that the restaurant is owned by the same man that owns the Lija Athletic club next door. Two very dissimilar restaurants, each very good in its own way. The week earlier at the wine bar, we asked the owner about the Bahia. He said it is very good. But, that they would be re-locating to the Corinthia Palace Hotel in Attard, in a couple of months. The poshest hotel in Malta. We could see prices doubling. So, we made a reservation for the following week.
While we have limited experience in dining at Michelin starred restaurants, I did note two obvious things. First, people weren’t dressed to the nines. It is hot, and is Malta. Leastwise no shorts or sandals! The other point was well received by us. The prices for our meal was much lower priced than other Michelin restaurants in Malta (there are 4 other restaurants with Michelin one-star!), and was in line with other upper end restaurants in Malta. So, a bargain! It wound up being just like a regular top end restaurant, with all-round better parts.
Had we opted for the seven course tasting menu, the menu was in the box!The other two menus were the ones I ordered for my dinner.
The better half ordered off the vegan menus.
For starter, she had local barley cooked in “melqart” Nocellara Olives and chervil. For the main course, “Conchiglioni” pasta, locally foraged wild mushrooms and autumn black truffle.
And for my dinner, there were plenty of choices.
I had the fresh scallop sashimi, with fennel & caper dashi and thyme oil. To accompany the scallop, there was a bowl of samphire and millet salad.
My main choice consisted of slow-cooked saddle of rabbit, rabbit leg & offal ‘Roġġ’tart, with garlic chive & spinach puree, with sauce bordelaise, along with some pretty amazing potatoes.
With the ever presence of the Coronavirus for the past year and a half, full dining experiences have been lacking for much of the time. And this dinner reminded us of what true artists chefs have become. What is most important to note is that chefs believe you eat twice: once with your eyes and once with your stomach. Normally, price would be the stumbling block. Absent that, this dinner was extraordinary because the dinner was a feast for the eyes and stomach. And the entire staff was most attentive, professional and quite helpful. If Bahia remains in Lija longer than anticipated, we will be happy to return. So, as I have said before, no snobbishness. No waitstaff in formal attire. No one telling us how lucky we were to be here. So, it was absolutely perfect.
Oh, by the way, Bahia is the name of the locally cultivated orange. They even have one, named Chloe in the restaurant.
Chloe
Iż-żminijiet qed jitjiebu; ikunu sikuri u jgawdu.
(The times are getting better; be safe and enjoy.)
Summer is getting closer now. Little rain, lots of sun and consistent warmth. But the most telling point is that I am again wearing my shorts every day! Whew, did my legs ever get white over the winter. But, most important is that restaurants are opening up again, along with retail outlets. Bars and band clubs will open up in early June. And it appears that travel between some other countries in Europe will open up in June as well. As per the new norm, it all depends if a country is Green, Amber or Red. As of today, Malta has the lowest number of cases per 100,000 in the EU, as well as the highest number of vaccine jabs per 100,000 in the EU. Today, just one new case.
Still haven’t gotten out and about with our exploration of Malta. But, it’s coming soon. In the meantime, a couple of the daily sites.
This shark has seen better days. Wonder what replaced it.I guess my dentist had enough of patients demonstrating their dental expertise.One thing we know for certain. No Festas (and fireworks) again this year. Sigh!Oh, and this was our best vacation ever! Tahiti.Not that we see this while walking around. But, it is a good memory, until we get out and take more vacations.
Nisperaw li dan is-sajf ikun dak kollu li kont qed tittama għalih.
(Hope this summer will be all that you were hoping for.)
Like everyone else, a semi-lockdown was not designed for your mental health. Understandably, your physical safety and well-being is paramount. But it would really be nice to get around exploring Malta again. So much to experience. At least I will finally be able to get a haircut again next week, along with my final jab.
In the meantime, doing the mundane, catching the good where we can, is a plus.
One of our favorite restaurants, Cellini, is located three streets away. Since takeaway is the only option, this spread is way more than enough for the two of us. All this for E25. And it includes a E5 voucher for use when in-house dining returns.Somehow, you just know it’s time to get back to the new normal. It’s not often I get to see a shark in the local clothes re-cycle bin.
Hekk kif ir-Rebbiegħa tersaq eqreb lejn is-sajf, aħna lkoll nistennew bil-ħerqa li nerġgħu lura għal ħajjitna. Nawguraw li tiġi dalwaqt għal kull wieħed u waħda minnkom.
(As the Spring gets closer to summer, we all look forward to getting more of our lives back. Wishing it comes soon for each of you.)
Our winter in Finland this year was surreal. What with all that is going on in the world, we were most fortunate to spend a month in the “fresh” air. I will focus now on items that make Finland different from Malta. When we hopefully come back again in the summer, it will all be green, and a respite from the heat of home. And the cold of Finland. Malta is our home. And we love every minute of it. But is always nice to take a break when you can.
Some days it’s better looking out than being outside.
And on those days, a glass or two of wine with friends is so much better than a snowball fight.
The new winter crop in Helsinki.
The better half just let it rip, and re-lived her childhood.
You know it’s really cold when the crystals are like Ivory Snow.
Nittamaw li kull persuna tasal biex romp permezz tal-borra meta tkun sigura.
(We hope that everyone will get to romp through the snow when it is safe.)
You can’t get to see Santa Claus without starting off from Rovaniemi. In the winter, most tourists arrive by either plane or train. Located astride the Arctic Circle, the municipality of Rovaniemi has about 64,000 residents. Until the arrival of the electric train to Lapland, steam engines hauled people and freight.
While the electric train replaced the steam locomotive, this engine is a bit older. But, being a train junkie, I included it anyway. It is located at the Rovaniemi train station.
Perhaps it is Rovaniemi’s location, but the locals only have one official language: Finnish. Much of Finland’s towns and cities have both Finnish and Swedish as official languages. In fact, it is known in Swedish by it’s Finnish name.
Finland has a long history, marked by many wars and occupations: first by Sweden, then by the Russians. Finland was declared independent in 1917. During World War II, Finland was attacked by the Soviet army in October 1939. After the Winter War ended in March, 1940, Finland had to cede 11% of the land to Soviet and relocate several hundred thousand people from those areas to the rest of the country. That peace didn’t last. The Continuation war started in June 1941. Although they appealed to the United States for protection, it was not forthcoming. As a result, Finland formed an understanding with Germany to get their help to fight against the Soviets. As the war came to an end, part of the peace agreement was for the Germans to leave Finland. As a result, the retreating German army burned down most of Rovaniemi in 1944, with 90% of the buildings burned down. The Finns were never happy with their alliance with the Germans; but survival was paramount. After the war, Finland was the only country to pay off its war debt to the Soviets.
The world famous Finnish architect Alvar Aalto planned the re-built city’s footprint in the shape of a reindeers head, with the city roads forming the antlers, and the local sports stadium as the reindeer’s eye. The city’s most prominent landmarks include the Jätkänkynttilä bridge with its eternal flame over the Kemijoki River, and the Arktikum Science Museum next to the Ounasjoki River.
We walked over this bridge during our “stroll” through the woods when it was -20C.
The Arktikum museum is the most complete museum documenting the lives of the residents of the vast lands north of the Arctic Circle, from Russia to the Nordic countries, Greenland, Canada and Alaska.
Before I go further, I should mention that in the winter, the temperature plays a significant role in the outdoor life of most Finns. Where Americans might go brrrrrr!, the Finns just say it is Wednesday. They go out and walk, ski and skate, as well as ride their bikes. For here, bikes have very fat tires and studs. They just layer up and enjoy the scenery. And when it’s sunny, you could even get a sunburn, as the sun reflects back from the snow!
With that in mind, we took a “walk” across the river and up into the hills. Very forested. And picturesque. For a moment, the Coronavirus was only in the back of our mind. So fresh and inviting.
They have marked trails for hiking in the summer and walking in the winter.
When you get to the top, you can huddle in a lean-to, make a fire and cook hotdogs.
From the top of our walk, we can look down to Rovaniemi and the bridge we crossed.
Did I tell you that the new parka came in handy, as did the poles. It really was very enjoyable.
When I got tired, I made one mistake. I sat down on the bench too long!!
Back in the city, we did some sightseeing. At the Arktikum, we were most impressed with the workmanship that went into the wedding clothes for the indigenous Sami couple. On the way back from the museum, we found out what the locals do with the extra snow all around: they make snow sculptures. And a most unusual creche. And finally, we got to celebrate our anniversary as well.
So ornate, and beautiful.
These two snow sculptures………
….get our vote for best use of snow.
Just your usual creche, until you notice that some of the “personalities” are ice sculptures; and even a reindeer is included.
Our wonderful dinner included cured salmon in beetroot and vodka
Reindeer chops.!! Yum!!
And for our last stop in Rovaniemi, we took in Angry Bird Park. A children’s park based on the famous worldwide Finnish game: Angry Birds.
Oh, to be a kid one more time!!!
Għall-ħbieb u l-ġirien tagħna f’Malta, naħsbu li wliedek jixtiequ jżuru l-pajjiż veru ta’ Santa. U l-borra hija jibred!
(For our friends and neighbors in Malta, we think your children would like to visit the real Santa country. And the snow is cool!)
And for our friends in America, when the Coronavirus finally leaves, a winter holiday in Finland is a great idea.
(U għall-ħbieb tagħna fl-Amerika, meta l-Coronavirus finalment jitlaq, vaganza tax-xitwa fil-Finlandja hija idea kbira.)
Growing up, I got to meet many Santa Claus’. Every department store had one. Every mall had one. Even Coca Cola had one. And of course, the most famous one is Macy’s! But not the real one. For that one has to travel a long distance, to meet him on his home ground. To be more precise, you have to go up to the frozen north, above the Arctic Circle in Finland.
Since we were going to spend post-Christmas time in Helsinki, we decided to go visit with Santa as well. Turns out he works all year round. After all, he has millions of presents to prepare for his special Christmas delivery. In the middle of the winter, there are essentially two practical ways to get there. Either by train or plane. With life during the Coronavirus, not many people come to visit Santa.
In a “normal” year, about 1,000,000 people come to Rovaniemi. Not bad for a city with a population of 60,000. And don’t forget, in the winter the temperature can get to -35C (-31F). Do dress warm! 747’s are chartered to fly people in to Roveniemi from Japan and China. And the Concorde was chartered to fly daily return trips from England in its day.
But, since we were in Helsinki, we decided to take the train. Not to mention that I have always been a train junkie. So, we booked ourselves on to the overnight train, departing at 8 PM, arriving at 7:30 AM. The distance is 827KM (515 miles), about the distance between Paris and Venice. And booked a sleeper cabin, with two bunk beds and its own bathroom with shower. We had a light dinner in the dining car. (Sleeper cars on night trains – VR)
Although it is a long distance from Helsinki to Rovaniemi, there is nothing to see this time of the year, as it is dark the entire trip. Now in the summer, that would be some view.
I guess this is the Finnish version of the Polar Express.
I got the lower berth.
All the comforts of home, the wall with the sink swings to reveal a tiny shower.
Dinner while leaving Helsinki Central Station. The Finnish lager is pretty good, too.
And finally, time for sleep. A rather bold looking pillow case. Sleep right on his beak!
Following day, after breakfast, a short bus ride, up into the hills above Rovaniemi, we are let off in Santa Claus Village. As we enter, we notice two things right away: it’s cold as heck and the Arctic Circle. There it is on the ground, right in front of us. No mistaking those coordinates. And the fact that it is about -18c. And with the wind-chill, it is an even -25C (-13F). Yup, it is cold. After talking with the elves in Santa’s gift shop, we get our bearings and head on out the back entrance, with Santa’s Office as our destination. Along the way, we come across the outdoor poles denoting the Arctic Circle, get a glimpse of Santa’s office and a Christmas tree with flags from every country in the world. And lots of snow.
OK, a corny picture, but it is the first time I ever crossed the Arctic Circle.
And there it is! Santa’ Office. Better remember what I was going to ask him for. I hear some people freeze up when in front of him.
And this is the tree with flags from all over the world. For my Malta friends and neighbors, can you spot the Maltese Flag?
Since they can’t paint the circle in the snow, these light posts will do.
And for crossing the circle, we get a certificate.
Now that we have our bearings, and certificate, we are off to see the Big Guy, Santa himself. Along the way we can see that the elves are already busy for Christmas 2021. Didn’t realize just how big an operation Santa Claus really is until now. There’s even a place to drop off letters to Santa, with our wish for Christmas. I will bypass that, as I will be carrying my list directly. We even got to see the main Santa post office, where he receives letters from all over the world. What would normally be a couple of hour wait to see Santa, turns into only one family ahead of us. So sad. Looks like a lot fewer elves are employed at the moment.
Just as we get to the entry door to Santa’s office, an elf comes up to chat with us. Where are we from, she asks. We say, Malta. And she says: Merħba! That’s welcome in Maltese. Of all the people on the face of the earth, just how did she learn to speak Maltese? But, hey, it is Santa’s office. Then she ushers us in.
Right up until you visit with Santa, you can update your wish list.
That’s a lot of presents. And it’s just January.
These would look pretty good under the tree.
Can you just imagine all the millions of letters he receives every year?
And finally, my chance to meet with Santa, and have a serious chat. I try not to be afraid.
I will let you in on a secret. I was going to ask him for a trip for my wife and I to visit Tahiti. But, in light of everything going on in the world, I said that since you visit every family in the world, couldn’t you just give the vaccine to every person in the worldwhile dropping off the the presents. He said it was a great idea, and will do so.
The better half reminds me that the next thing on our list was to visit Santa’s reindeer, and go for a ride. Not every day one can do that while slowly freezing to death. We went to his reindeer corral, met the reindeer, had a chat with them, and climbed aboard for a ride, tucked under warm pelts in the sleigh. It was the most amazing experience. A beautiful sunshiny day, cold as heck, with the snow flakes sparkling all around. And it was the most quiet I have ever experienced, aside from the gliding of the sled.
Not far from his office, Santa keeps his reindeer, for easy loading of his sled.
So, before we head on out for our ride, we check the paws of the reindeer, to choose which one to take.
Psst, hey you. Give me some lichen, and you will enjoy your ride.
Just before we head on off into the woods, our “driver” takes a picture of us, buried under all the reindeer pelts for warmth.
They thoughtfully provide a warming fire after the ride. Did I mention that I was so happy that I bought the extra heavy parka.
After all the excitement of the day, I forgot that we were getting hungry. Because of the Covid, fewer restaurants were open in the village. Nearby was the smallest dine-in restaurant we have ever experienced. Manned by the chef, cook, waiter and bus-boy (all in one). No written menu. Just salmon grilled on a roaring open fire, served with bread and hot Glogg. Extra servings of glogg were necessary to raise our temperature. The salmon was excellent. A perfect way to end visit with Santa.
People come from all over the world to visit Santa
Elanor Roosevelt visited here in 1950. This cottage was named for her.
This is the 3 star restaurant where we had our lunch.
Behind the “counter,” there’s the one person kitchen.
The roaring fire grilling our salmon and keeping us warm.
Cannot begin to tell you how delicious this salmon tasted.
So, as it started getting dark, about 3:30PM, we decided to head on back to Rovaniemi. It was a wonderful trip. Made me feel a lot younger and energized. Maybe, in another five years, we will do this again. Santa Claus Village in Rovaniemi in Lapland Finland Arctic Circle
U lill-ħbieb kollha tagħna madwar id-dinja, nixtiequlek saħħiet tajba fl-2021. ċaw!
(And to all our friends around the world, we wish you good health in 2021. Bye!)
Christmas 2020 is unique, not to mention melancholy as well. Like everyone else, we approach this holiday season with concern, a bit (or a lot) of trepidation, and the hope that we can squeeze out the goodness we expect of this season of Christmas, Hanukkah and Kwanza.
Last year, just taking in the lights of Naxxar and Valletta required much patience and shoulder rubbing, as the crowds were very large: on the streets, in front of Christmas displays and in restaurants.
It would be an understatement to say that this year is not filled with crowds. With the announcement that the Covid vaccinations will commence here on December 27, spirits are lifted; but the Maltese all wear masks and mark social distancing. And every building we entered, we sanitized our hands. But it was still shocking to see how empty Triq Labour in Naxxar and Republic Street in Valletta were. But the very fact that the vaccine is coming reduced anxiety.
These pictures are organized by Naxxar (our home Village and properly named In-Naxxar), Valletta (in Maltese as Il-Belt Valletta, as it is the Capital), and the “most over the top” decorations we have seen. I do hope it brightens your day and lifts up your spirits.
The stockings were hung with care.
Fresh trees are not in the cards in Malta.
The better half is most creative when making a wreath.
With a late change to our plans, we will be spending Christmas and New Years in Malta. Hopefully, we will get to Helsinki some time in January.
Of particular enjoyment are the door wreaths, with each topping the other.
Even the local businesses get in the spirit.
You can even stroll under an archway of lights.
The main street in Naxxar, Triq il-Labour, is always brightly lighted.
The parish church(built between 1616-1630) is always lighted at night; but is special when the creche and tree is in place.
To answer the age-old question of how Santa brings in the presents in Malta if you don’t have a chimney.
Throughout the village, there are many creche that are put in place.
All the narrow streets include festive lights, including Santa Lucia Street.
I think Santa is being held hostage!
The Peace Band Club is always near the center of the lighting.And most band clubs are located close by the Church.
Just before Christmas I spied this butterfly. Not used to seeing them in the winter.
The Naxxar Local Council, like all villages in Malta, is multi-purpose, containing the city hall, the post office, a social security office, a health clinic, a library, as well as the local boy scouts.
Victoria Plaza is the heart of Naxxar, which includes the church, as well as the original buildings constructed around the church. On a “normal” day, people are sitting around drinking coffee or a Cisk beer, catching up on all the local doings.
Our Village of Naxxar goes all-in on Christmas. Everyone does their best to decorate the whole village. Each year we can’t wait to walk around, enjoying the sites, sounds and tastes.Christmas 2020 is so different from last year, and hopefully, from next year. To discourage crowds, there are no live bands on the streets. Virtually no tourists and so very few residents. Valletta, normally the hub of Malta, has many shops and restaurants closed. Bars and band clubs are required to be closed. This year, a light show in St. George Square is the focal point of the Christmas celebration.
The view of the Triton fountain at the entrance to Valletta at sunset.
The christmas tree in front of the Parliament building.
Lights on Republic Street and the small side streets.
The light show in St. George Square illuminated the Presidential Palace.
The “Michelin” man at the entrance to Is-Suq Tal-Belt, the food court and supermarket, in the former two story market building on Merchants Street.
One of the more elaborate creche. Even socially distanced!
Taking advantage of the entrepreneurial spirit, a restauranteur lights up the entrance to his restaurant.
The quiet that surrounds the Castille, the office of the Prime Minister.
Even the tradition of Hanukkah is celebrated.
One last look at the Christmas tree at the entrance to Valletta.
And finally, walking past the Triton Fountain, on the way to catching our bus home.
Although scaled back from normal, Valletta still gives off the vibes of Christmas.
As part of the tradition of oohing and ahhhing all the displays, we also decided to give separate mention to those residents of Naxxar who went “over the top” in their quest for decoration excellence.
Just because the front porch is small, there is always room to put up all the decorations, and much more.Just around the corner from our home, this masterpiece gives credence to the belief that Christmas is not just for the very young. And our winner of this year’s “over the top” award. Creativity, not to mention a large wallet to pay the electric bill.
So, Christmas in Malta is vastly different this year; but is just as beautiful, and anticipated, as ever. The Coronavirus has stood the world on end but has not diminished the worth of this holiday season. As the new year brings hope for a solution, we want to wish you all a happy holiday season and a very much better and brighter New Year in 2021.
Il-Milied it-Tajjeb U Is-Sena T-Tajba and a Happy Hanukkah and Kwanza.
(Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year, and a Happy Hanukkah and Kwanza.)
At the entrance to Linnanmaki, you are welcomed. It was opened on 27 May 1950 and is owned by non-profit Lasten Päivän Säätiö (Children’s Day Foundation), which operates the park in order to raise funds for Finnish child welfare work. In 2019, the foundation donated a total of 4.5 million euros. Linnanmäki is the most popular amusement park in Finland.Oh, and there is no entry fee.
Ever wonder what it would be like if you could go back to your youth, if even for only a few hours? When we were in Helsinki this past summer, we made an effort to go to Linnanmaki, the old-time Finnish amusement park. ( https://www.linnanmaki.fi/en ) My wife said she hadn’t been there in 45 years. My turn at Seaside Heights in New Jersey was even longer in the past.
We were both lucky in that we lived in or near cities that had year-round amusement parks, not just at fairs for a couple of weeks each year. At any rate, our tamped down exuberance was bubbling to the top by the time we reached it. We took the Metro to the city center, and from there, a trolley to Linnanmaki. It was like turning back the clock; and we enjoyed every minute of it.
One disclaimer first. I do not like riding on roller coasters. So, the better half went on one by herself. By the time we left, we knew we would go back again.
So, enjoy the pictures, wishing you could go there, too!
This being Finland, it is a coffee cup ride, not a tea cup.
The better half went by herself.
But, I did wave to her. The guy standing up is the conductor?
Now that’s my speed!
The arcade with theatre behind it.
Memory lane. All the groups that have played here.
Seriously, dude.
I would not stand below the riders!
Maybe this would have straightened out my spine.
They really deserve to toot their horn. A wonderful park.
You can see all of Helsinki from the Ferris wheel.
Little parks like this throughout.
Even the Moomin vacation here.
A very non-traditional amusement park gift shop.
This guy likes the park so much that he now lives here.
A cool end to a wonderful sunny, summer day.
I think we will come back here next summer. Something very enjoyable to look forward to doing. By then, hopefully, things will have settled down; and back to the “new normal.”
In the meantime, wishing you, and your family a very Merry Christmas/Hanukkah/Kwanza and a healthy and happy New Year.
From our family to yours. Be safe and stay well. We’ll talk again in the New Year.
We were quite lucky in that Finland was not off limits to people going from Malta to Finland. And the Malta airport opened up in mid-July, just in time for our early August flight to Finland. The Finns have done a fantastic job in fighting the Coronavirus. Since they are born with social distancing in their DNA, that part was easy. After we were there for two weeks, the Prime Minister announced that people should wear masks on public transport. By the time we left, about 40% were wearing them. Now it is mandatory. So, all in all, it seemed as close to normal as we could have hoped for.
Something we both agreed that we wanted to do was to visit Linnanmaki, the rather stately old Helsinki amusement park. That will be the next blog. And the subject of the last blog, the Fazer Chocolate Factory was a natural to do as well.
Mostly, we walked around outside, taking in the sights. And we also spent a lot more time riding our bicycles around the area. We were most fortunate in that the weather was always sunny and warm. Of course we visited the Helsinki Outlet Mall!
We even did something neither of us had done in many, many years. We played miniature golf! Quite naturally, our scores reflected our degree of rust!
Just a short bike ride from our Condo, we played our first game of miniature golf in so many years. We made all manner of claims how unfair this course was. But, the plain truth is that we just were not very good.
And since we both would had our birthdays in late July and early August, we decided to celebrate. Along the way, we found out that the City of Helsinki converted the Senate Square to a temporary outdoor café/restaurant/bar. It was open from July through early September. Over 400,000 people decided to enjoy the great weather, along with a cocktail or two. Socially distanced, of course.
The ultimate pop-up café. From noon to late nite. 400,000 people in a little over two months.
Notice white brick squares throughout the square. Each two meters. One table per square.
Thirsty or hungry, kiosks surround the square.
So, between a dinner with friends, visiting two traditional Finnish restaurants (both near Se
nate Square) and two trips to the Senate Square cocktail party, we spent some quality time, with great weather and friends. Next year, the temporary outdoor bar will probably be open from June. Looking forward to it again.
Our birthday dinner was at Ravintola Kolme Kruuna (Three Crowns), located a couple of blocks from the Square. https://www.kolmekruunua.fi/en/
In 1952, the owners of the café and bar Liisan Baari decided to turn it into a restaurant. It is widely believed that they serve the very best meatballs, “Pyttipannu” (“hash”) and fried Baltic herrings in the city. As we have been there on many occasions, I would second that belief.
Meatballs with mashed potatoes, pickles and beets.
Fried Baltic herring, mashed potatoes, pickles and beets.
Reindeer tenderloin with mashed root vegetables.
Three favorites from Ravintola Kolme Kruuna (Three Crowns)
Directly across the street from Senate Square, Savotta offers a very Finnish experience, reaching across the country for their foods. https://www.ravintolasavotta.fi/en/
The very same view we had from our table.
Fish Savotta, the best tidbits of thousands of lakes.
Topside roast of reindeer and browned puikula potatoes, with dark cranberry sauce.
We each had the same menu for appetizer and main course.
We did manage to take a day trip to Tallinn, Estonia. Estonia is a favorite destination for us, usually taking a few days over the Christmas holiday each year to stay at various spas. And it’s a fantastic spot for shopping, especially in the Old Town. Due to the Coronavirus, many shops were closed, while some soldiered on in hope of making enough to see them through. We benefited from major discounts at an excellent linen shop Natural Style. https://naturalstyle.ee/ Fifty percent discounts on all of our purchases. Linen is the perfect material to wear in Malta.
And before heading back to the ferry terminal, we had a late lunch at our most favorite restaurant: The Farm. http://restaurant.farm/?lang=en Like the shops in Tallinn, restaurants were also hard hit by the virus. No more cruise ship visits. And the number of visitors on ferries from Helsinki is down more than 50%, while ferries from Stockholm have ceased operation (except for freight). I’m glad we can support them.
COLOURFUL SALAD OF VARIED TOMATOES, RED ONION, AROMATIC HERBS
LAMB TARTAR. LOCAL FRESH CHOPPED LAMB MEAT WITH MARINATED BEETS, TOMATO CONCASSE, GARLIC AIOLI AND CUMIN CRACKERS
FRIED PIKE PERCH WITH POTATO-BROCCOLI CREAM, BUTTER-BRAISED GREEN VEGETABLES, AND HOLLANDAISE SAUCE
LIGHTLY HERB SEARED MILK FED VEAL FILLET WITH GRILLED SOUTHERN ESTONIA CARROTS AND WILD RED-WINE AND MUSHROOM RAGU
A splendid lunch at The Farm
As the number of virus cases throughout Western Europe continue to rise, uncertainty again rises up. People are holding out expectations that a vaccine will be found shortly. We still maintain our distances from others and wear our masks in shops and on buses. And sadly, we now avoid trips into Valletta since the tourists from all over Europe head there first. Our scheduled re-start of our Maltese language class was first pushed back two weeks. Now it has been rescheduled as an on-line class.
The new normal will not be the same. But it will get better.
Se jkun hemm jum aħjar fl-aħħar tal-qawsalla
(There will be a better day at the end of the rainbow)
As an avowed chocoholic, I zeroed in on Fazer chocolate, especially the amazing dark chocolate. So, it didn’t come as a surprise to my wife that I said we should take a break in cleaning up our remodeled Helsinki condo, and take a tour at the Fazer headquarters. Due to the Coronavirus, our tour could not include the actual chocolate production lines; but the trip was well worth it.
My first encounter with Fazer was several years ago when we were walking down the Esplanade in Helsinki, near the inner harbor. The Esplanade is home to some very pricey restaurants, shops and hotels. Just off it one will find the Café Fazer, founded by Karl Fazer in 1891. Fazer was born in Helsinki in 1866. He studied baking in Berlin, Paris and Saint Petersburg before opening up his café. In support of this enterprise, he also opened up a chocolate and confectionary factory. And the rest is, as they say, history.
These pictures are from the first café.
The original cafe Fazer, founded in 1891 in HelsinkiJust get a scoop and choose your chocolate!!You don’t have to eat chocolate candy. You can also have a pastry.
Like everywhere else in Helsinki, traveling by bus is a snap. Just take a bus from outside our door, to the suburb of Vantaa (location of the airport). Fazer HQ is right across from the bus stop. And right in the middle of a forest (like much of Finland). No forest fires here. They must have been busy raking up the forest floors!
Located in Vantaa, the Fazer HQ included plenty of space for their visitor center. While all their chocolate is manufactured here, there are other plants that make cookie/pastry/ bread/cereal products. All are sold in the visitor center. The tour lasts an hour (including a “tasting room” where you can sample as much candy as you wish( 15 minute time limit). Or realize, that at a certain age, you no longer can eat as much chocolate as you used to eat. From there, you can visit their shop, where you can buy all you want. (At dinner that nite, we chose not to have dessert.)
From entering the visitor center, until we left, I tried to document the complete experience. Enjoy, and drool!
We had an hour to fill in before our tour, so we had lunch first. Not the usual tour cafe.
Almost the national food of the Nordic countries, shrimp and egg salad was delicious.
The better half opted for a Spanish take on the traditional.
Yikes! But, with the tour upcoming, we passed.
Yes!, Fazer also makes ice cream. It used to be shipped to shops in wood and metal barrels.
It may be new on the dessert menu, but we held back.
Can you just imagine how appealing this looks! Again, we passed.
My mother always told me to eat my lunch before dessert. The lines sort of blurred in the Fazer Cafe.
With lunch completed, it was off to the tour.
In welcoming us, Fazer gently reminds us that Finland has two official languages, Finnish and Swedish. But English is also an important one, too.
Before seeing the chocolate, we enter an actual rainforest to see where many of the ingredients come from. This is a live cocoa plant.
The Fazer rabbit is very important, because…….
….each Easter they stuff real egg shells with Fazer chocolate. A special annual treat
Lest we forget, the tour guide reminds us about the impact of chocolate on our brains. Moderation.
And while she is at it, she shows us various food groups. And points out the balanced ones.
This display of chocolate molds is actually made of real chocolate!
And they point out to us that marketing is key to sales. This represents the tie with the Moomin in selling various products.
The many faceted Fazer company, a family run business, with Fazer’s still in charge, has deep roots in the Finnish community, and employ thousands. They are deeply committed to the environment and treat their employees with respect.
There is no doubt that chocolate and other candies appeal to kids of all ages. These posters are very effective and attractive.Imagine! You are in a room with several of these candy trees, along with many counters, all filled with chocolates. And you have 15 minutes to eat all the chocolate that you want. You come in, thinking like a kid. About 5 minutes later, you realize that you are not a kid anymore. Just stay away from the kids. They are still scurrying around, all wide-eyed!
Finally, with reality having taken over, you slink out of the tasting room, and head to the shop. And now your quest takes three turns. First, you finally get to see ALL of the products that Fazer manufacture. And it is an unbelievable range. Then, you start thinking about all of the people at home who would like to receive some Fazer chocolate. And finally, you realize that you should also buy some more stuff for you(which you will eat later). And as you depart the visitor center, you each receive a large grocery bag from Fazer, containing a bit of all of their products. We will be back!
Of course, all kinds of chocolate bars.
This chocolate bar comes complete with nuts.
The Geisha chocolate was originally made for the Japanese market, but gained favor throughout the world.
Finns can spend hours looking for their very favorite licorice.
What school kid can refuse when sent to the chalkboard, when handed a chalk-colored piece of licorice.
My kind of chocolate!
Not sweet like chocolate, but their sourdough oat bread is excellent.
The Jaffa Cake is a filled (orange or grapefruit) cookie/cake covered with chocolate on the top. Very tasty!
Fazer is big with pastries.
Never would have thought of it, but they make Muesli and Porridge.
No, not the sugar. It is a cream filled cookie that is the Oreo look-alike.
Like the Oreo, you can split away the top, and eat the cream filling first. But so much better than the Oreo because it is not nearly as sweet.
My very favorite chocolate, the 70% dark chocolate.
At the end of the rainbow, I get to buy my favorite chocolate. All is right with the world.
When I look back on our experience at Fazer, I realize that we were there for almost three hours. For chocolate! Well worth the time. Fazer is so much more than a chocolate company. A highly ethical company, they deeply care about the environment and all their employees. A very typical Finnish company. Even if you don’t want to take the chocolate tour, make time for lunch in their café, and visit the shop on the way out. I think that the next time we are back in Helsinki we will hop the bus and go out there, to have lunch, and buy some goodies. It’s on my to-do list.
Seattle to Malta 6,087 miles (9,796 kilometers)...... And a lifetime. 