I know, I am getting ready for our flight with Santa in his sleigh to the frozen north. But I can’t help it. I was browsing through my photos when I realized that I had many pictures of cats. Not just any cats, but alert and ready for action, even if that means with their eyes closed.
Maltese people love cats, even if they do let them run to fend for themselves occasionally. But I captured them being, well, being cats, in all their moods.
Hope you like them, Amy.
Enjoy!
Hope you all have a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year (Il-Milied it-Tajjeb U Is-Sena T-Tajba) and a Happy Hanukkah.
By the Promenade in Sleima, they erected a statue to the prolific cats of Malta.
The security guard at the entrance to San Anton Gardens.
Catching a few zzzz’s is standard.
Some prefer full-on sun bathing.
Not often you can sneak up on a cat. Look up!
She should have been here now to feed us.
I will dine when I prefer, by myself.
These cats give a new meaning to a window overhang.
I know it is because the temperature rarely gets above 65F (18C). Oh, and there is rain from time to time. Another sign is that all the children are bouncing off the walls, getting very excited. And one last sign is that the Christmas lights are now on in our village of Naxxar. We knew that even before we saw them because there was a short but very noisy display of fireworks. This is, after all, Malta. So, out we went, seeing the first street lights at the end of our street. Then it was off to dinner.
Leave our home, turn right, walk a half a block, and we are at Triq Parrocca (Parish Street). The start of Christmas.
The better half loves Risotto. This came with mushrooms.I had the tagliatelle with squid ink and shellfish.(The Daily Grub) Yum!
Then it was time for a stroll through the village to see how it was looking; all ready for Christmas. And it does look ready!
Day or night, the Naxxar Parish Church looks spectacular.
Every neighborhood has their own lighting.
And of course, the Band Clubs participate… and celebrate.
And everyone decorates their front doors.
From the church, looking down Triq Labour (our main street).
Now that is some view. I do wonder, of course, just how Santa will make it without snow.
Inside the church, an international choral festival, with choirs from all over Europe.
Two weeks and we will be heading off to Finland for a winter holiday. I made arrangements with Santa Claus for us to hitch a ride with him up to the Frozen North. He is making his last-minute checks of naughty and nice in Malta before heading back to the North Pole. (It really is in Rovaniemi, Finland.) https://www.visitrovaniemi.fi/love/santa-claus-magic-of-christmas/ He will drop us off in Helsinki.
Hope you all have a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year (Il-Milied it-Tajjeb U Is-Sena T-Tajba) and a Happy Hanukkah.
Will Blog with you all in 2020! With many pictures from the Frozen North.
When we moved into our flat in Naxxar, we knew the village had history. The fact that the village motto is Prior Credidt, “First to believe”, is a certain tip-off. As the ancestral residents supposedly rescued St. Paul from a shipwreck, while on his way to Rome, Naxxar has history.
And lo and behold, one of our neighbors, three blocks removed, owns the Parisio Palace and Gardens. As we were determined to get to know the neighborhood, we set out to explore it, along with our guest from Vancouver.
The backside of the church is a short two blocks from our home. And the Palace is located right across from the frontside of the church.
Built in 1733 by the Portuguese Grand Master Manoel de Vilhena, it was acquired in 1898 by Marquis Guiseppe Scicluna, local banker, philanthropist and pillar of the local community (also quite rich). His great granddaughter and her daughter are the present owners. They have overseen its restoration, as well as the magnificent gardens. Not bad for a family home in our neighborhood. The three focal points for visitors are the palace, the gardens, as well as a well-respected restaurant, Luna.
When moved into our flat on the back side of the village church, we had no idea of the presence of such a spectacular neighbor on the front side of the church. Lgawdu l-sbu Ħija u splendor. (Enjoy the beauty and splendor.)
Someday, when we save up enough money, we may try the restaurant.
The entrance to the Palazzo. Sure sets the mood.
Ornate is the least one can say,
The family coat of arms on the ceiling.
Somehow, I don’t think the dinner table was set for us.
Nothing like a gold screen for a little privacy.
Think he was there to guard the silverware.
Not to mention the watchful eye of the palace cat.
Between the palace/restaurant and gardens is a wonderful place for breakfast or a drink.
Not exactly like the wall at the back of our home in Kenmore.
Who wouldn’t want to stroll through this garden.
And just behind the garden wall, was the local mill.
Directly across the front entrance of the Palace, is the main entrance to the local Naxxar parish church.
When moved into our flat behind the village church, we had no idea of the presence of such a spectacular neighbor on the front side of the church. We have many more pictures of the Palace and gardens. If interested in seeing them, please let me know. Happy to share.
Lgawdu l-sbu Ħija u splendor. (Enjoy the beauty and splendor.)
After the hiatus, it’s time to get back to the blog. In the past couple of months, we have been busy buying and closing on our new home in Naxxar, a village of about 14,000 people. Located just a few kilometres from our rental apartment in Lija, we are located just two blocks from the village parish church: Our Lady of Victories.
The Naxxar Parish Church, dedicated to Our Lady of Victories, was built between 1616 and 1630. Our apartment is two blocks from the church.
Like much in Malta, Naxxar dates to
pre-historic times. The early residents helped rescue the shipwrecked Saint
Paul; and were the first converts to Christianity.
As with our time in Ħal Lija, we note just
how quiet it is, although located just stone’s throw from the village plaza.
Unlike Lija, Naxxar has a bigger central core. With nearby shops, restaurants
and a supermarket, we are only a short walk from about everything. In fact, our
closest bus stop is now only half a block away, as opposed to a seven-minute
walk.
Getting back to exploring Malta, our next blog will present the Palazzo Parisio and gardens. Hope you all have had a wonderful summer and are now looking forward to the cooler weather and the upcoming holiday season. Il-Vaganzi T-Tajba. (Happy holidays.)
Could it finally be over? Seems like just yesterday we were taking in our first Festa at Ħal Balzan. Then it was on to Ħal Lija, Mosta, Attard and finally, it ended with Naxxar. Along the way, we learned so much, about Malta, its people and culture. And, to be sure, so much about the band club culture, fireworks and Maltese food.
Our hosts wanted us to experience the real Maltese rabbit dinner, not a restaurant version. The home version takes more than a day to prepare. This is our appetizer of rabbit pasta. Notice. No tomato sauce.And this work of culinary art requires a marinade in herbs, wine and garlic for many hours. Then it is pan fried. And finally, it is sautéed with more wine, herbs and garlic. And lastly, potatoes and peas are added (no French fries came near this recipe).
The best way to tie it all up in a bow would be to clearly state that Maltese people are the friendliest, warmest and most welcoming people we have met anywhere. So far, these blogs have captured much of what we have learned over our first six months in Malta. And there is so much more to learn.
It’s just that the last couple of weeks have been so quiet. We have gotten used to fireworks at 8AM, noon, around 6PM, and again around 9:30PM. So much fun!
Our first experience with ground fireworks.The Maltese band club tradition starts with the very young.
Are the fireworks over? Nope this coming Saturday is Independence Day (‘Jum 1-Indipendenza'(September 21, 1964), with a huge display over Valletta.
And for us, the first week of October will bring us to our first Maltese language class. No doubt, this will greatly enhance our experience. And hopefully, your enjoyment.
Can’t wait for the new fireworks next year. They are already working on them now.
We landed in Helsinki after midnight on Friday morning. After throwing our bags into the apartment, we ran across the street to Prisma to buy some food for breakfast on Friday. Got to sleep at 2:30AM. Sometime in the middle of the night it started pouring buckets. It kept on going all Friday and early evening. All told, almost three inches of rain. Lots of flooding. I believe I said I would like some rain after almost three months of sun in Malta!
Saturday night we took the Metro (subway) into the center of downtown Helsinki. We decided on having sushi at Luckiefun’s sushi buffet (https://www.facebook.com/luckiefun ). Was our second visit. Still very good, and a good bargain.
Decided to walk off dinner by walking along the Esplanade to the Inner Harbor. Stared at the new Moomin Mugs in the Arabia store. At almost ten, it was still light enough to see all the sights from the Allas Seapool https://www.allasseapool.fi/en/ , a combination Sauna, three outdoor swimming pools and multiple bars and restaurants on three different outdoor levels in the Inner Harbor. Sat down with a couple of mojitos; and looked over the harbor. Life is good!
And today, we peddled on over the bridge to Vuosaari (in eastern Helsinki), to visit a family friend. She promptly took us to an outdoor Sunday market, where I finally had my favorite fried lake herring and onions and pancake and coffee for dessert. Sigh!
In the display window of Stockmann’s Dept. store, they are advertising the coming ballet of Alice in Wonderland.
Guess this is Alice.
Helsinki is divided into quarters. This how they are named.
Every city should have a big wheel, including one with a car that is a sauna!
From our perch, we can see the restaurants and marinas on the nearby island.
What better way to end the day than with a couple of Mojitos.
From our comfortable reclining seats, we have great view of the inner harbor and the three pools.
Ok, they are owls. Just not sure why they are there.
Before heading on home, we said goodbye to the horses.
As it’s finally time head on home, as the light starts to fade over the Central Church in Senate Square.
Well, since we don’t have a car back in Malta, maybe we should bring it home.
The market is next to the local library.
Although they looked good, I passed on the elk hot dogs.
Fried lake herring can be addictive. Got the last of them before they ran out.
After drooling over the frying herring, time to pick them up, one by one, and chomp on down. Yum!
Since we made a clean sweep of the herring, we opted for dessert.
After the herring, had to have another Finn favorite, pancake with strawberry and cream.
Happen to come across field testing of driverless bus on the island. Way cool!
Just realized that being retired does not eliminate your desire for a holiday. Right in the middle of the dog days of summer in Malta (and a whole lot of festas), we figure it is time to head on off to the defrosted north, to Finland. Helsinki to be more precise. So, right at the end of their late summer festivals’ season, we will look forward to a somewhat less heated environment. For those in the States and Canada, enjoy your Labor Day holiday. Busy times ahead in September.
My most favorite Finnish summer dish: fried lake herring.
Looking out from the Finnish public sauna (Allas Seapool), we can see the Presidential Palace, City Hall and Swedish Embassy, along the inner harbor. In the background is the Lutheran Church, in Senate Square.
Now if this doesn’t offer up cool and tranquil to you, what will? This is a former timber mill outside of Pori, a couple of hours west of Helsinki.
Day and night. For all the summer, the sound and sights of fireworks. In fact, at noon today, 15 minutes straight of petards blasting skyward, with a fluffy puff of white, followed by a really loud boom. Not that we are complaining. To the contrary, we love it. But we keep asking ourselves why the Maltese are obsessed with fireworks. And we found the answer. It comes from this article in the GuideMeMalta.com.
“Summer in Malta is not complete without fireworks – that somewhat deafening boom and the bright, albeit short-lived lights punctuate the sky for four exuberant months. In fact, if the Maltese summer were to have a theme tune, it would be the cracking boom of fireworks mixed with the harmonious ringing of church bells set to a background of boisterous brass band marches.
Fireworks are probably the closest you’ll get to defining the Maltese character – a loud burst of color and passion. And the creators of such magic are all about passion. The tradition of fireworks manufacturing in Malta goes back for centuries, with the knowledge being handed down from one generation to the next through hands-on learning. Today, however, things are a little different – fireworks manufacturers are required to attend an official course and pass a written exam before obtaining the necessary license to mix the chemicals. There are 35 fireworks factories on the Maltese Islands with around 1,900 licensees and a further 700 about to obtain their license. A thriving industry, you might think. And while it is, it is also one that essentially only makes money to burn back on the fireworks themselves, since all these manufacturers are volunteers, and their work is purely a labor of love!
A Maltese Cross above Lija.
Malta’s fireworks tradition dates back to the time of the Order of the Knights of St John, who would celebrate important feasts with pyrotechnic displays, quite likely inspired by celebratory cannon or musket gun salutes. Years later, Italian pyrotechnicians came to Malta and shared their expertise with local manufacturers. Nowadays, Maltese fireworks factories have gained a global reputation for their unparalleled creativity, and regularly win awards at international festivals and competitions. “Maltese fireworks are unique, and that’s not just me saying it,” Josef points out proudly. “In other countries they tend to use single shots. We are very creative. We’ve even managed to spell out words using fireworks, and even depict faces of cartoon characters. I consider the Maltese pyrotechnicians of today true artists. They are painters of the sky.” St Mary’s show, held annually on 14th August, is especially renowned for its innovativepyrotechnic tricks, including the jaw-dropping Tower of Light.
With all this talent, it’s hard to believe that these exceptional fireworks masters all give their time for free to create such artistry. “The fireworks factory is our second home after the family. We make huge sacrifices to produce these fireworks for the joy of our village parish feast and all those who come to admire our fireworks. Many volunteers come in every day at 4pm after work and stay on till midnight, and sometimes even work through the night to produce the fireworks,” explains Josef. The competitive spirit between the parishes to produce the best fireworks display for their village festa fuels this creativity and passion. The factories have to raise their own funds to manufacture fireworks, partly through the generous support of the villagers, but mostly through selling fireworks to other towns. “A typical display for our village would cost around €50,000,” reveals Josef. “Two weeks after the festa, we start planning the following year’s festa, and one month before the show, we start preparing the letting off site.” (Article from GuideMeMalta.com)
The creativity of the fireworks factories is breathtaking.
So, now you know why and how. I guess the most important ingredients are dedication, belief, volunteerism and no pay! It reminds me exactly about the Band Clubs. Young kids are given free training, free instruments, and a way to express themselves. In return, they give a lifetime of service to the Band and village, just like other kids give their all to the local fireworks factories. To me, it is a very encouraging and patriotic act on the part of Malta’s youth. And a way to preserve and improve on a worthwhile tradition.
The Rotunda of Mosta, Malta, during the festa of 2019.
So far, we visited the parish churches in both Balzan and Lija. Both were incredibly beautiful, both inside and out. In time for the festa in Mosta, we paid a visit to the Rotunda of Mosta (The Basilica of the Assumption of Our Lady). Mosta is located at the very center or Malta. What first strikes you is the large size of the Rotunda. (The dome is about 160 feet across.) At one time, it was listed as the third largest unsupported dome church in the world. Over and over we are struck by the grandeur and size of many of Malta’s churches.
The Rotunda is not old, by Maltese standards. (Historical information follows from Wikipedia) It was built between 1833 and the 1860’s. And it was built based upon the Pantheon in Rome. Unlike many buildings in Malta, it survived World War Two. On April 9, 1942, a German plane dropped three bombs on the church. Two bombs deflected off the dome and fell to the ground. The third bomb went through the dome, into the sanctuary. It embedded into the floor but did not explode. This happened while 300 parishioners were attending a night mass. No one was hurt. It was widely hailed as a miracle. (A replica of the bomb exists, located in the sacristy). In 2018 the church was upgraded to a minor basilica.
If you should be in one of the towns (Hal Għaxaq, Gudja, Attard, Mosta, Mqabba, Qrendi and Victoria) that celebrate the Feast of Santa Maria on August 15, note that it is also a national holiday. The date of this festa coincides with a major event in WWII. During that time frame, the people of Malta were essentially without food and fuel, and about to surrender.
” Operation Pedestal, known in Malta as the Santa Marija Convoy, was a British operation to carry supplies to the island of Malta in August 1942, during the Second World War . The most crucial supply item in Operation Pedestal was fuel, carried by the SS Ohio, an American tanker with a British crew. The convoy sailed from Britain on 3 August 1942 and passed through the Strait of Gibraltar into the Mediterranean on the night of 9/10 August.
The Axis attempted to prevent the fifty ships of the convoy reaching Malta, using bombers, German E-boats, Italian MAS and MS boats, minefields and submarine ambushes. More than 500 Merchant and Royal Navy sailors and airmen were killed and only five of the 14 merchant ships reached Grand Harbor in Valletta. While costly for the Allies, it was a strategic victory; the arrival of Ohio justified the decision to hazard so many warships; its cargo of aviation fuel revitalised the Maltese air offensive against Axis shipping.
So, if you hear one of the local bands playing a version of the Star Spangled Banner, and other patriotic American songs, now you know why. The Maltese have a long memory about the support given them by the Americans. Nonetheless, it is still a surprise when you hear it played.
As a photographer, taking pictures in the Rotunda was quite unique. No corners. And light coming from all directions. As it was during the festa celebration, the interior, like most churches in Malta, was draped, inside, with red silk drapes. The overall effect was nothing short of very impressive. With so many sites to see in Malta, visiting their churches should be high on your list. To visit during a festa (mostly in the summer months) period, would add to the beauty and history of your vacation.
Can’t believe it’s that time already. We arrived in mid-April. Everyone we met said that they hoped our roof had a view of the fireworks from Lija. All, even from the neighboring villages of Ħal Balzan and Ħ’Attard have said that Lija has the very best fireworks on Malta. So, finally, got our first look.
This is our second Festa, with Balzan being the first. For us, it was truly remarkable and highly enjoyable. A festa is part religious, honoring the local parish Saint; a floating party with bands playing all over the village, with food and drink everywhere. And, very importantly, it is a leading social event of the year. Everyone attends. We are completely hooked on them.
In the case of Lija, it is spread out over a week. Every morning at 8AM there are fireworks. At night (usually 9:30PM) there are band marches and concerts. And this is followed up by a fireworks display around 11PM. As it gets closer, there are also fireworks at 6PM as well. Each night, they get more elaborate.
The parish church is decorated like I have never seen before. Virtually all the stone walls, from top to bottom, are covered in silk. Breathtaking, just looking at it. Even more so, the time to iron each piece and then carry it up and hang it from the walls. To learn more about the Lija parish church, click here:
The Parish church of Ħal Lija, on the square in Lija. During festa, the lights are turned on at 2030 nightly.
As is the custom, all the churches in Malta are lighted for their festas.
The inside walls of the church are lined with ironed silk fabric, throughout.
One of our fellow residents, a former fireworks worker, said that his great uncle painted the ceiling, and put in the faces of his neighbors.
Patron saint in church prior to taking it out to all the village of Lija
The procession begins, with all the participants leaving the church, ahead of the saint.
People of all ages participate.
The statue exits the church. Those carrying the saint must bend down so it can clear the entrance.
And finally, it comes outside to applause from thousands of Lija and area residents.
Getting ready for his over two hour journey through the village streets, one of the carriers has some last minute thoughts.
An important aspect of carrying the statue is that each person must be the same height. All ten men.
The procession is underway. Just passing the local band club. As is custom, the statue will be followed by many people, as well as viewed by people standing front of their homes. Light now, it will be dark when the procession is completed.
With the church in view, the procession is almost complete.
Thousands of people watch as the statue re-enters the church, to the constant bell ringing, fireworks, as well as the bands playing.
My focus mirrors my tastes. I love food, seeing what the residents and guests eat at the festa. Not to mention what I like to eat. Growing up, I always liked bands, especially marching bands. There was plenty of that in Lija. And food. Not sure what I like more, food or photography. But, if you are hungry, Malta is the place to be. And I like to watch the people. They are enjoying themselves.
Festas are not a complete thing without multiple bands, both marching and in concert. Each parish has one or more band. They take turns marching or presenting a concert. And they even bring in band members from other villages and towns to augment their numbers. And other village and city bands come to participate as well.Bands were established to train young children to play an instrument. Band lessons are free; and they provide the students with instruments. They learn to participate in the preparation and running of the festas, as well as learning to make fireworks. Virtually all the fireworks are made locally by the Maltese, not imported from another country, or even another town. The bands march around the village and towns, taking upwards of two or more hours. They stop occasionally for some liquid refreshment. After all, it is a social event.
As the statue crosses under this banner, confetti will pour out.
For a couple of weeks before the festa, the band clubs put up the banners in the village marking where the bands will march.
Being in a band is a source of great pride and satisfaction.
Whenever the band marches, their relatives and friends will follow behind.
In training for the band?
Another band lines the broad main street to welcome back the statue and procession after more than two hours of going through the village.
Every so often the bands take a break for a cold one before getting back in line to start marching again.
Besides fireworks and bands, the Maltese love food. At all gatherings they will be eating. Watching fireworks from their roofs, they have barbecues. At a festa, there are a myriad of food trucks, dispensing (sometimes in one truck) hamburgers, sausages and Chinese food. Then there are several trucks with gelato, soft-serve ice cream, nougat bars, popcorn and cotton candy. No one goes hungry! And if you have time to sit down, band clubs and athletic clubs offer a more substantive selection.
Now that is a hot dog (in there somewhere)!
Can’t make up your mind? Have a hot dog with your hamburger and chips.
The better half opted for a really good pizza with parma ham, arugula and buffalo mozzarella, at the local athletic club.
While I could not pass an opportunity to have half a rabbit, braised in beer and garlic! Yum!
As I said before, I enjoy watching people. They are involved, engaged and enjoying themselves. That is why festas are a loved part of the Maltese calendar.
Some things amaze me. How about women who can march in the band for more than two hours in high heels!J
Just before the procession gets underway, a man starts to tape a shim to the carrying pole, to keep it steady. He asked why I took the picture. I told him it was just another example of why tape is good for everything. He laughed.
The bell ringers take a rare break to watch the proceedings be below. For them, it was several hours of nonstop ringing.
Man’s best friend loves fireworks, bands and screaming kids. Not sure why people in the States go ballistic over noise. Not in Malta.
One of the statue carriers has some last minute thoughts before the procession gets underway.
Fireworks are for kids of all ages.
Can you tell. This is one very happy and excited boy, trailing and playing along with the band. Bet he starts taking lessons and joins the band.
Looking down on the festa is the all-seeing drone, capturing all the activity for the official Ħal Lija video of the Festa of 2019.
And, finally, there are the fireworks. As long as I can remember, I have loved watching fireworks. In the States, it seems fashionable to denigrate fireworks as noisy, a threat to children and pets. In Malta, the dogs and cats, stare out in space, not affected at all. Children love them. And streets are blocked off, with bus schedules disrupted. No one cares. It’s a fun time, a religious event, and a social event. The Lija band club has its own fireworks factory. The results are spectacular, over a two hour display.
For some reason, unexplainable to me, all Maltese love/are obsessed with fireworks. Thank goodness! No captions here. Just enjoy the pictures.
Seattle to Malta 6,087 miles (9,796 kilometers)...... And a lifetime. 