Like everyone else in Malta, the Coronavirus sort of crept up on us. The leadup to Christmas in Naxxar was very normal. The village was lit up, doors were decorated, everyone was dining out in the restaurants, the bars and clubs were filled with people just waiting for Christmas.

And we headed out for our usual Christmas in Finland and Estonia. Little did we realize that when we returned, there were reports of some new “flu” in China. Fast forward to May, and we see just how terrible and fatal this new pandemic was. But, we did enjoy Christmas.

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Moving to Malta, as I said previously, was a wonderful and wonderous experience for us. We could not have made a better choice. And, adding to it, is just how the Maltese responded to the challenge of the pandemic. The government early on closed the airport and all ferries to Italy. They took steps to ensure our health by telling all people with compromised immune systems and those over 65 to remain indoors, unless for grocery shopping or other essentials. But, since most companies already delivered, this was not a hardship.

Non-essential businesses were closed down. Social distancing was immediately put in place. People who went out, while in quarantine, were fined initially €1000 and if they persisted, €3,000. If you gathered in groups of more than three, you were fined. Many restaurants initiated takeout and delivery services. We have availed of take out for ourselves, tasty pizzas, hamburgers, fantastic mushroom risotto, and just yesterday, excellent roast beef with béarnaise sauce and roasted potatoes. The tiramisu was to die for!

As part of the semi-lockdown, the government initiated programs that gave money to people out of work or working just part time. These were not one time gimmicks. They are paying out up to 80% of an employee’s wages until the crisis has passed. They are supporting business, but not to the exclusion of the people.

And out of concern for the peoples’ health, they called off all the social festivities of the Festa season this summer. And that includes no nighttime fireworks. And for the Maltese, THAT is a big deal. Yet no pushback.

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And in early May, it became mandatory to wear a face mask or a facial shield when riding a bus or going into a shop, even as they are slowly opening up what can be safely opened. Every open shop entered means getting your temperature taken, along with a squirt of hand sanitizer. No mask, no entry on the bus or into a shop. Pretty soon it was common to see someone step off the sidewalk, into the street to avoid getting closer than 2 meters to you.

But through it all, the Maltese did not rebel or threaten the government over its actions. No armed groups of people threatened the government. At the end of the day, the Maltese realized that the government was looking after its citizens and residents. And the statistics, as of May 8, bear this out. There has so far been only 490 cases total, with only 58 cases considered active. As a result of the government’s actions, there were only five registered deaths. And ranking fourth in the world in the number of tests per million people, the number of reported cases has dropped to about 1-3 per day for the last three weeks. Contact tracing is a serious business.

Yesterday, we made our first “trip” out, for a couple of hours. By bus we went to Valletta to take in the annual floral display in St. George’s Square. A beautiful sunny day, with the colors of the display in full regalia.

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After seeing the display, we started walking back to the bus terminal. And we realized just how deserted the streets were. On the main street, Republic, there were almost no people. During carnival, just two months ago, there were about 400,000 people.

When we passed shop after closed shop, we understood that although the Maltese fully support the government, it does come with an economic loss. Especially when you consider Malta’s main industry is tourism. Without a doubt, the summer tourist season is over before it started. Hope is that it will return in 2021.

Passing by Castille, the Office of the Prime Minister, the stairs were empty, unlike during carnival. Is this the new normal?

Cultural activities, like the April presentation of the opera Otello, were cancelled.

Finally, I was able to take a picture of Jean Parisot de Valette, the Grandmaster of Malta, without people surrounding his statue.

When will this end? And when it does, will Malta ever return to “normal?” I somehow doubt people will soon feel the desire to reach out and touch people. And will we ever allow anyone to get within two meters of ourselves? Will bars and restaurants again be crowded? And when can we again travel to Finland?

I really do not know. I doubt the government knows for sure. There one thing that I know with absolute assurance is that, yet again, the Maltese character is shining through, as it did during WW2. People are still helpful, albeit at a distance. Government services still function in a reasonable fashion, even though it is mostly on-line now. The people still believe that government is their friend, not their enemy. Recovery will be slow; but Malta’s economy was not shattered as much as other countries. They actually had a rainy day fund, as there was a budget surplus.

With five thousand years of history, a sunny and warm climate, along with the blue Mediterranean Sea, and a welcoming population, I bet on Malta coming back even stronger, although with some differences.

When we moved to Malta, we wanted to immerse ourselves in Maltese culture and life. Towards that end, we signed up for a Maltese language class. To be honest, my wife has done better than me in that regard. It’s not an easy language. What can you expect from the country that for over 5,000 years has been attacked or conquered, one way or another, by Arabs, Italians, French, North Africans, Turks and the British; and almost bombed flat by the Germans in WW II. It is a language that combines a bit of them all. Not to mention my pet peeve: words with seven letters, of which you pronounce only four. But, hey, we try; and it is appreciated. We won’t give up.

Enjoying my photography, I am amazed, every day, at what I see. I never imagined photographing buildings 5,000 years old. The very word “old” means something different in Malta than in the United States. A real window into learning a bit of Maltese history.

As for food, don’t get me started. What can you say about a country that enjoys the bounty of the sea, the heritage of Italian cuisine, not to mention Rabbit (Fenek)! Oh, and how we love a good pizza. Speaking of which, if you find yourself in Balzon, try the pizza at the Band Club San Gabriel. But, if you find yourself in Naxxar (pronounced Nashar), you must try this pasta dish.

( https://www.thegrubmalta.com/en/ )

Of course, if you enjoy good great food, then you need some good wine to accompany it. Having lived in the Pacific Northwest of the United States for 40 years, we were fortunate to learn quite a bit about wine, having taken several wine classes led by the amazing Bob Betz, he of The Betz Family Winery, outside of Seattle.  He taught us how to find good wine no matter where you live. We were taught to recognize good wines and find them in bottles that did not break the piggy bank. (His strongly held belief was that anyone could find an excellent wine for too much money.)

Malta (the size of Seattle) and Gozo, much smaller, contain quite a few wineries, growing wine in some harsh conditions. Until the past ten years, the quality of Maltese wine, overall, was considered average. Through diligence and training, Maltese wine, and those produced in Sicily have become some of the best wines available in the Mediterranean area.

After living here for one year now, we have identified five wines, so far, that receive the JZ label of approval. We have sampled many differing wines but need more research!

ISIS Chardonnay Superior, 2018. Produced and bottled by Meridiana Wine Estates. TA’ Qali, Malta

Isis classification

DOK Malta – Denominazzjoni ta’ Origini Kontrollata Vintage 2018,2017,2016,2015,2014,2013,2012varietal/s Chardonnay of Malta tasting notes

Isis has a brilliant, straw-yellow color with a pale green rim; a fresh, complex bouquet of grapefruit and other exotic white fruits with gentle floral notes; and a well-structured, citrus taste with a long, pleasantly acidic, aftertaste.

The 2018 vintage was characterized by the constant rainfalls registered in spring. This made it quite challenging, but at the end, grape production was abundant. Excellent work and control on the white grape varieties, and the thorough selection on the red grape varieties have given the desired quality and balance to the wines.

The name ‘Isis’ recalls the Phoenician goddess of sailors whose vigilant eye still graces the prow of the Maltese fishing luzzu (boats).

The Isis was first released in 1997 (vintage 1996)

Medina Syrah/Carignan/Mouvedre, 2018, Produced and bottled by Delicata Winery, Malta (Mouvedre instead of Grenache)

Medina Syrah – Carignan – Mourvedre, I.G.T. MALTESE ISLANDS(2018)

The Maltese summer warmth and Delicata’s expert care for their family-run vineyard parcels give this skillful winemaker’s blend of three complementary grape varieties its distinguished burst of ripe summer fruit flavors and spiciness. This unoaked, soft and cherry red dry wine is lighter in style, yet abundant in regional character. Serve cellar cool at 14-18°C.

Nero d’Avola, 2018, DOC, Caleo, Sicily, Italy

For most people the Nero d’Avola grape is largely unknown. So, here is a primer (test will follow):

Nero d’Avola (also known as Calabrese) is the most important and widely planted red wine grape variety in Sicily. Vast volumes of Nero d’Avola are produced on the island every year and have been for centuries. The dark-skinned grape is of great historical importance to Sicily and takes its present-day name from the town of Avola on the island’s southeast coast. The area was a hotbed of trade and population movement during the Middle Ages and Nero d’Avola was frequently used to add color and body to lesser wines in mainland Italy.

Translated, Nero d’Avola means “Black of Avola”, a reference to the grape’s distinctive dark coloring, but its exact origins are the subject of debate. The region of Calabria can lay claim to the variety via its synonym Calabrese (meaning “of Calabria”), though this term may be a derivation of Calaurisi, an ancient name for someone from Avola.

For most of the 20th Century, Nero d’Avola was used as a blending grape and the name very rarely appeared on wine labels. By the turn of the 21st Century, however, the grape’s fortunes had changed considerably, and it is now common to find Nero d’Avola produced as a varietal wine as well. It is often compared to Syrah because it likes similar growing conditions (Sicily has a hot Mediterranean climate) and exhibits many similar characteristics.

Depending on production methods, Nero d’Avola can be made into dense and dark wine that is stored in oak barrels and suitable for aging, or young and fresh wines. Younger wines show plum and juicy, red-fruit flavors, while more complex examples offer chocolate and dark raspberry flavors.

Nero d’Avola typically has high tannins, medium acid and a strong body. However, it can also be very smooth if grown at higher elevations where cooler temperatures restrict the alcohol levels. It thrives on the eastern part of Sicily and is being trialed in Australia and California.

Marsovin Noir

Dedicated to Marsovin’s late founder Anthony Cassar, affectionately known as Sur Tonin, Antonin Noir is a Private Estate Selection wine blended from Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc  grapes harvested at the Marnisi Estate in Marsaxlokk, the first and the largest in the series of Marsovin’s privately owned Estates, intended for the production of premium wines. The fruity characteristics of cherries, blackcurrants and blueberries make this wine enjoyable in its youth while the ageing in French oak barrels gives it a velvety finish on the palate and excellent ageing potential.

Marnisi, 2018, Organic, Cabernet Sauvignon/ Merlot Cabernet Franc/Petit Verdot, Marsovin Winery, Marsa, Malta, 13.5%

Marnisi

Marnisi is a Single Estate Selection wine harvested from the Marsovin vineyards in Marsaxlokk bearing the same name. It is a blend of four noble grape varieties; Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. It is a full-bodied complex red wine of great character with a strong Mediterranean terroir. The limited quantities produced are aged in French oak barriques for a minimum of 12 months in the Marsovin cellars. Due to its robust nature and solid structure Marnisi has an excellent ageing potential. Since its inception in the mid nineties, Marnisi has won respect from various wine lovers and connoisseurs around the globe and the reasons for this are evident to the enthusiast.

We hope you enjoyed this short trip through Maltese and Sicilian wines. So much going on in just our first year. This wine experience to date has been everything we had hoped it would be, and so much more. We can’t wait to get out and explore some more. What can be better than to explore living history, great people, food and wine. Sure hope you can find some of these wines where you live.

And as soon as we can get free from the Coronavirus enforced “stay at home,” we will again hit the road, with an open mind and camera. In the meantime, stay well, and wash your hands, while staying two meters apart!

ħajja ħajjin, igawdu ħajja!

(Live life, enjoy life!)

The other day I sent a few pictures of some good looking bread. But now, I found out what bread really means to the Maltese. This time, no need to show pictures.

Bread in the Maltese language

There are several ways in the Maltese language to define how bread is the basis of survival.

• (ħobżu maħbuż), his bread is baked, meaning the person is well-off.

• (tilef ħobżu), he has lost his bread, meaning the person has lost their job.

• (x’ħobż jiekol dan?), what bread does he consume? an expression used when enquiring after a person’s character.

• (jeħtieġu bħall-ħobż li jiekol), he needs it like his daily bread, used when a person is in great need of something.

• (ħaga li fiha biċċa ħobż ġmielha), something which provides a lot of bread, used to describe a profitable endeavour.

• (ma fihiex ħobż), it procures no bread, used to describe a profitless venture.

So, now you have more ways to refer to bread, and astound your friends.

Ejja biex jinkiser il-ħobż

(Let’s break bread)

A matter of hours after posting the last blog, the Maltese government announced some new rules taking place effective Saturday morning. All residents over 65 years of age, as well as those with diminished physical capacity and pregnant woman must remain in their homes. Only way out is for visits to doctor. I do appreciate the pro-active way the government is responding. Not at all like our neighbors to the north in Italy or Spain.

While I will miss my daily walks, shopping and photography, I still have my bread baking (artisan breads are not often done here). And good bread flour is a rare item here. The Maltese are rightly proud of their daily bread, Il-Ħobż tal-Malti. Typically, one pound in size, the Maltese buy a fresh loaf every day of the week. Some even get their loaves from small trucks that go around the villages, much like the fruit and veggie trucks.

Maltese bread (Maltese: Il-Ħobż tal-Malti) is a crusty sourdough bread with a squishy interior, usually baked in wood ovens. It can be eaten as an accompaniment to food and with a variety of fillings; the typical and favorite way to consume it is as bread with spread olive oil (Ħobż biż-żejt), where the bread is rubbed with tomatoes (as with the Catalan pa amb tomàquet) or tomato paste, drizzled with olive oil. But for certain, it is the daily breakfast bread.

Then there is the Ftira. This is the National bread. Looks very much like a very crusty bagel, light and airy on the inside. About the size of a discus. From it, you can make a myriad of sandwiches for lunch. Our favorite is the tuna sandwich.

I’ve spent the last couple of months building my sourdough. From it, I will bake 2 kilo whole wheat boules with seeds. Also, I can be counted on to bake sourdough whole wheat bagels, along with some 100% rye breads for the Finn in my life.

As man does not live by bread alone, I also have my Bradley Smoker to barbecue ribs, chicken and pork shoulders for pulled pork. Not to mention an homage to our past in Seattle. we make a mean hot smoked salmon.

So, I like to think of this next period as the time for making plans for later in the year, after this tragic anomaly is concluded. We will get through this just fine. Through five thousand years of history, the Maltese have faced off with so many kinds of enemies, getting stronger for it. A most resilient people, with a kind heart and a most generous nature.

Jkollna aktar b ‘ saħħitha u aħjar

(Getting stronger and better)

The government has just released the daily count on the Coronavirus. They released figures showing five new cases overnight, bringing it up to 134. Of the five new cases, three are from people who traveled to the Continent, while two caught it from someone in Malta. So far, there has been no dramatic ramping up of the cases. And very fortunately, there is only one person who is in critical, but stabilized condition. There have been no fatalities to this point. Being an island nation can be helpful from time to time.

Like most places, no public gatherings allowed; bars, clubs and restaurants are closed. Grocery stores and pharmacies remain open. Other businesses are shut down. Construction sites, for the most, remain working. The airlines cannot enter or leave Malta. And ferries to Sicily remain shut down.

Like restaurants the world over, creativity by the owners are keeping us in great food, to take away. Last night it was Thai street food, and two nights ago it was great pizza. So, we enjoy good food, while helping the neighborhood economy.

There was a piece of good news. The government just opened up a new electricity scheme that will enable new users of solar panels to offset their electrical usage by getting rate reductions for using solar. Not only will that save us a bundle of money on our bills, it will be another step in making Malta a more renewable energy friendly country. We will be getting solar panels in a couple of months, in time for the really hot and sunny part of the year. Keeping our cool.

In previous blogs, I mentioned how fireworks crazed the Maltese are. One of the downsides is that periodically, they go boom! Yesterday was such a time. We had a very violent lightning, rain and thunderstorm in the late afternoon. Then we heard an even louder boom. Later we found out that lightning struck a fireworks factory.

https://timesofmalta.com/articles/view/room-used-for-fireworks-blows-up-after-suspected-lightning-strike.780875

Virtually all the villages and towns have at least one fireworks factory to supply the summer Festas. This is a fairly regular occurrence. But, no one was hurt.

So, be safe out there. Keep practicing six feet (two meter) separation, wash your hands continually, and keep a good attitude. It will get better. Solidarity means we care about everyone, everywhere. When the world gets healthier, the economies will get better. Put the health of our world first.

Like everywhere the world over, the Coronavirus has reached Malta. Still under 20 cases, all from persons infected in countries in mainland Europe. Flights have been reduced, eliminating flights to and from certain countries. And anyone entering Malta, must self-quarantine themselves for 14 days. That effectively eliminates tourism for the next few weeks.

Day to day life is slowing down. Bus drivers wearing masks. Stores are closing down. I guess restaurants will be next. Just like in many countries, a run on toilet paper. Still not exactly sure why. Also, since the prime source of water comes from desalination, many people drink bottled water. So, now a run on that as well.

Schools and government offices are closed. There has been some talk of a complete shutdown. That appears to be off the table for the time being.

But the weather is stunning. Warm enough for us to eat breakfast on the terrace. And thanks to E-books, courtesy of libraries, we are can read our favorite authors.

One consequence of the virus, shooting for the new Jurassic World 3 movie has been placed on hold. There was some filming here in Malta. A good thing they placed a hold. If not, pre-historic creatures would have gained access to the Parliament of Malta.

I have two pieces of advice for my readers.

1. Wash your hands (you know the tune).
2. Stay at least three feet from anyone else (just like they always do in Finland.)
3. Keep a good attitude and your humor.

By now we know that the Maltese love parades, bands and parties. What better way to combine them all than with their annual celebration of Carnival, just before Lent. The Grand Parade this year was on a Sunday afternoon in Valletta. With a total population in Malta of 500,000, someone must have tipped the island over on its side and at least half of them ended up in Valletta, which has a population of about 7,000 people on a normal day. That, and you can throw in the politicians and civil servants that make up the Maltese government.

As newcomers, we wanted to experience our first Carnival here. During the Carnival week, there are many events all over the island, and Gozo. We chose the Grand Parade. According to the official website, the parade would start at 12:30 in front of the Castille, the office of the Prime Minister. Considering that irony has a place in many floats, it was ironic that it starts in front of the very building where protesters were throwing eggs at the former Prime Minister in November. He resigned in January. With a new Prime Minister now, people used the stairs in front of the building to watch the parade.

We arrived in Valletta at 11AM, hoping to snare good spots to watch. When we got off the bus, we noticed that all the floats were getting ready at the Graneries, now a large open area which in the olden days had buildings used to store grain. Today all that remains are “stumps” of the former columns throughout the site. Bands were playing (naturally), and food trucks were ensnaring willing people. Whole families were on hand to view the floats, scattered about getting last minute checks. For many Maltese, it was an opportunity to let their children dress up, since it is the Carnival. Some adults played along, and dressed up, too.

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In every direction, crew members were climbing over and around their elaborate floats, making sure oversize arms could move, turtles can lunge out to either side, lights were working, and giving last minute touch-ups to their characters. Not to mention loading up hidden storage spots with soda, water and beer. (It is a long parade- six hours. Six hours from where we stood. For those near the finish line, it would end about 9:00PM.)

What immediately struck us was just how elaborate, intricate, mechanical and ironic they were. More on the irony later. We saw arms moving, up and down, back and forth. We even saw a train moving around a float. And the overall impression – we have never seen so many, brilliantly colorful floats.

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After viewing all the floats, we followed a band away from the Graneries, over the moat on to the bridge that takes you into Valletta. Did I mention lots of people? Yes, indeed. We made our way into the city (Il-Belt as it’s called in Maltese), past the Parliament, turning right to the Castille. One thing that really highlights the enormity of the crowds is the fact that the roads are very narrow (designed to repel the Turkish invaders in the 1500’s.)

We finally reached our planned location to watch the parade. Slowly, people all started congregating around the steps at the Castille, as well as the square in front. Of course, this is Malta. So, by Maltese time, the 12:30 start became 1:15. At first, we didn’t think there were many people there. After it started, it filled up fast. Every float that came by stopped, enabling dancers and other members of the “cast” to perform, before eventually moving forward again. Sometimes, with the others around us, we would move forward with the parade, getting different vantage points. And then moving back. No formal viewing areas. Stood wherever you wanted. Truly up close and personal with the floats and performers. In fact, we just moved along with the floats and people marching the parade. No barricades to stand behind. At times, we were standing right in the middle of parade. Fun!

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After a while, we caught the irony. There was the float that prominently featured the former chief of staff to the former Prime Minister. He is currently being investigated for shady financial dealings in and around Malta and the possibility of being part of the murder conspiracy surrounding the assassination of the slain Maltese journalist Daphne Caruana Galizia. Heavy stuff that can, with the right presentation, poke fun, while making some serious statements.

Oh, and you can bet your last Euro, that the President of the United States, Donald Trump, took a few hits as well. In fact, a voice from one of the floats said: “Ladies and Gentlemen, the President of the United States, Donald Trump. And, as with one voice, a loud round of boos!

At around 6PM, we started losing energy. And only about half the floats had gone by. So, we started making our way out, the way we came. When we got to Republic Street, the main drag in town, we stopped for a cup of tea and a cappuccino, along with suitable muffins. At that point the floats we saw about five hours before, started passing us by. Time to leave. But, come next year, we can count on coming again. A wonderful spectacle!

If you are considering coming to Malta on holiday, there are two great times to visit: during Carnival (the week before Lent), or in the summer, to enjoy the Festas and fireworks. Or, if you like your first trip, come back to see the other!

Il-ħajja hija meraviljuża, tgawdiha.

(Life is wonderful, so enjoy it.)

We try to go walking every day if we can. Yes, it is healthful; but it is quite enjoyable, too. If we can get in two or three miles a day, we are happy. But the thing is, in Naxxar, it is also a history lesson. Most places we pass are several hundred years old. Some buildings have been re-purposed several times. We are very fortunate indeed. It is one of the reasons we wanted to retire in Malta.

Today we are going to follow a specific walk through our historic home, Naxxar. Not a long walk, only 1.59km. It does take us through the oldest parts of our village. The main street we travel is named Triq (street) Santa Luċija. Over the years this street has been the hub for commercial activities as well as social life. Back in 1874 there were bakeries, nine blacksmiths, butchers, shoemakers, wine makers and a silversmith. But what makes this street unique in Malta is that it has fourteen alleys (Sqaq Nru) running off it. The most off any street in Malta. Not only, but there are fourteen statues on the houses on this street.

The walk, and street, starts at the front of the parish church. On either side of the street are houses over 300 years old. Oh, there is one rule to follow on this street. Come to think of it, on any street in Malta. If you are walking, be very careful. Drivers tend not to see pedestrians, ever. Sidewalks are small or non-existent. So, if you are staring through the lens of your camera, at least keep your ears open!

Depending when you finish this walk, reward yourself with a breakfast, lunch or dinner. Or, just a cold one! Here are a few of our favorites. All are either directly near the church or in an alley off Triq Santa Luċija.

The Daily Grub: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g1200548-d17630402-Reviews-The_Daily_Grub-Naxxar_Island_of_Malta.html

Cellini: http://celliniwinedine.com/

Ta’ Stringi: http://tastringi.com/

Old Charm: https://www.facebook.com/theoldcharm

Of all the countries we have visited, Malta is the location where many businesses use free Facebook rather than setting up a website. Either way, the food and wine are excellent, and service is friendly and good. If you opt for some wine, try a Maltese label. Tasty and low price. While you can always eat a hamburger anywhere, you will find excellent pasta in these restaurants. Ta’ Stringi also makes a mean pizza, too. With Sicily a short ferry ride away, the Italian influence in food and language is everywhere. And don’t forget the presence of several Indian focused menus.

The walk should take about an hour, unless you take lots of pictures like me. Or you just let your mind wander about what living here four hundred years ago would be like.

Start by standing in the Pjazza Vittorja, which is surrounded by the parish church, the Peace Band Club and the Palazzo Parisio. From there you will start your walk down Triq Santa LuĊija.

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Now begin your walk through the narrow triq. Your head will be on a swivel, as you look left and right (don’t forget the cars coming from behind you). You will reach the first alley.

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Gawdi l-ġurnata tiegħek

(Enjoy the day)

So, we made it back to Helsinki, in time to jam into a trolley car, headed back to the train station. Just so that you know, if you try to catch a trolley after getting off the ferry, it will be very crowded. Either lots of patience is required or being able to push forward. Once on the trolley, you will not be able to move. But fear not, most people get off at the train station to either catch a train, a bus or the Metro. Back at the apartment, we shoved our bags into the hallway, and headed across the street to Prisma, to pick up food stuffs for breakfast. Then, sleep.

In the morning, over coffee, tea and bread, we decided that we would like to head down to the Esplanade (home for pricey shops, restaurants and hotels. There is a nice park in between directions. A great place to browse and see Moomin. All the while moving towards the harbor and the outdoor market.

What items did we want to see, but not likely to buy? I finally got to sample a moose dog. The thing is, in Finland, you don’t just order a hot dog (pork or all beef). Here you must decide if you want the above, or reindeer, moose, as well as other combos. This is important stuff people! So, we spent a relaxing time walking around (and not spending!).

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Fortified, and raring to go, we walked through the outdoor stalls along the waterfront.

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One last stop before we head on home for the day. We stopped into the indoor market along side the harbor. At one time, it was filled with a myriad of shops, selling, produce, fish, meat and other items. Now, sadly, it is mostly being taken over by restaurants. If you want to see a real market hall in action, head on over to the Hakeneimi Market Hall ( http://www.hakaniemenkauppahalli.fi/kauppiaat/ ). It is located two stops away on the Metro.

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For those considering a trip to Helsinki for the holiday season, there is a way cool way to do both Helsinki and Stockholm. From either city, the Viking Line and the Tallink/Silja lines have ferries that depart from either direction at 5PM. Each ship has several restaurants, buffets, cafeteria, bars and casinos. And, to the delight of most passengers, there are very large duty free shops. Since you don’t arrive until around 8AM (or 7AM, depending on time zones), get a cabin for a good night’s sleep. If you take this ferry in the summer, it will be light most of the way, ensuring you have breathtaking views of the many hundreds of islands you pass in the archipelago. And if you go to Stockholm, be sure to visit Skansen ( https://www.skansen.se/en/welcome-to-skansen)

At the end of the first week in January, the annual LUX light show is put on by professionals throughout the world, in the lighting business, as well as by local school kids. Located within a mile area, it attracts over 600,000 people, young and old, to marvel at the creations. If you go, make sure to bundle up. It runs for one week, in the evening. Way cool!

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And for the first time, we celebrated our anniversary while we were in Finland. We had dinner at our favorite restaurant in Helsinki (  https://www.kolmekruunua.fi/en/ ). No visit to Helsinki would be complete without it. Open since 1952, it has all the charm of an upscale neighborhood semi-casual restaurant. Very welcoming, comfortable, with excellent service. And a great place to seek out what Finns like to eat.

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And then, our flight back home to Malta (Santa was too tired to fly us back), where I have several blogs ready to create. It was kind of weird seeing roses in bloom here at home. Hope you enjoyed your holidays, as we did.

Nixtiqilkom kuntenta ħafna 2020

  (We wish you a very happy 2020.)